Whirlpool Washer Error Code: 1h, 2h, 3h….up to 12h
When the display shows a number up to 12, followed by an “h”, it means that the Delay Wash has been activated. Most front load washers can be set to delay the wash for up to 8 or 12 hours (depending on your model).
To set the Delay Wash, turn on the power, then tap the “+” or “-” button near the display. See picture below for an example – location may vary depending on model.
Delay wash option on washer display
Tap the +/- button to increase/decrease the time for the delay in 1 hour increments. Some models have up to an 8 hour delay, others up to 12 hours. Once set to the preferred delay time, press the start button. The display time will decrease every hour until it reaches “0h”, and the washer will start at that time. The Delay Wash light will remain on until the washer starts.
To turn off the Delay Wash once it has been set, turn the power button off.
Whirlpool Washer Error Codes
Whirlpool washers are equipped with an array of error codes that help diagnose issues and streamline the troubleshooting process. While these error codes are incredibly helpful, deciphering them and addressing the underlying problems can be a daunting task, especially if you’re not familiar with the intricacies of your washer.
At Appliance Repair Los Angeles, we understand the importance of a smoothly functioning washer in your daily routine. Our team of experienced technicians is well-versed in Whirlpool washers, and we specialize in addressing Whirlpool Washer Error Codes efficiently.
No matter the specific error code your Whirlpool washer displays, our experts have the knowledge and skills to diagnose the issue accurately. Whether it’s a drainage problem, a sensor malfunction, or any other error, we can provide effective solutions to get your washer back to its optimal performance.
| Error Code |
Causes |
| 1h, 2h, 3h….up to 12h |
There is no error – the Delay Wash is activated. Learn More |
| dET |
Detergent dispenser cartridge is not detected in the dispenser. Learn More |
| Beeps |
Error “Beeps” are an audible signal that the machine makes to alert the user that something is not right. Learn More |
| F20 |
Indicates a water inlet problem. Learn More |
| F21 |
Indicates a drain problem. Learn More |
| F22 |
Indicates a front door lock issue. Learn More |
| F5 E2 |
Door is not locking properly. Learn More |
| F5 E3 |
Door is not locking properly. Learn More |
| F5 E4 |
Was the washer run 3 times in a row. Learn More |
| F7 E1 |
Motor speed sensing error. Learn More |
| F8 E1 or LO FL |
Washer is not detecting the correct amount of incoming water. Learn More |
| F9 E1 |
This error code indicates that drain times are longer than expected, typically over eight (8) minutes. Learn More |
| FH |
Indicates that there is a Water Inlet Problem—no or insufficient water supply. Learn More |
| Int |
Indicates that the cycle was paused or canceled. Learn More |
| LoC or LC |
Control Lock is activated. Learn More |
| PF |
Indicates that the unit has experienced a power failure during operation. Learn More |
| rL or F34 |
Indicates that items were detected in the washer during the Clean Washer cycle. Learn More |
| SUD or Sd |
There are too many suds in the washing machine. Learn More |
| F0 E2 or Sd |
Washer has detected an excessive amount of suds in the washer basket. Learn More |
| F0 E5 or ob |
These Error Codes will appear once the cycle has completed indicating there was a balancing issue with the cycle. Learn More |
| F8 E1 or Lo FL |
Washer is not detecting the correct amount of incoming water. Learn More |
Contact Appliance Repair Los Angeles at 323-792-1970 for fast and reliable assistance. Our skilled technicians are dedicated to helping you maintain the efficiency and longevity of your Whirlpool washer, ensuring your laundry tasks are stress-free.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Water Dispenser Problems
Whirlpool Refrigerator Dispenser Actuator
The dispenser actuator is the component that activates the switch or switches to send voltage to the dispenser. If the dispenser actuator is damaged, it may be unable to activate the switch. Inspect the dispenser actuator for any damage and replace with a new one if necessary.
Water Tube in Door is Frozen
To determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature. The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve
The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if the water pressure is too low, the water valve will not open. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.
Low Water Pressure from House Supply
The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.
Misaligned water filter
Water filter may not be seated properly. Remove and reinstall the water filter. For optimal performance, refrigerator water filters should be replaced every six months or after 200-300 gallons of water have been dispensed – whichever comes first. Replace the water filter if needed.
Home’s water supply valve not fully open
The refrigerator is connected to a water supply valve that may not be fully open. If the water line was disconnected or the valve was shut off for service, it may not have been turned back on to the fully opened position.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Dispenser Control Board
The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Dispenser Switch
The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Water Filter Housing
On many refrigerators, the incoming water will pass through a water filter before reaching the dispenser. If the water filter housing is damaged, water may not flow through the housing when the filter is installed. Inspect the water filter housing for damage and confirm it is properly seated. If necessary replace the damaged housing with a new one.
Door Not Fully Closing
Check to see that the doors are closing properly. If a door bin or food item is keeping the door open slightly the refrigerator may not cool properly, which can cause the refrigerator to run constantly.
Water Dispenser Control is Locked
Make sure the water dispenser control is not locked. There will often be a lock symbol or other indicator to confirm the control is locked. When locked, neither the ice nor water dispenser will work. If the control is locked you will need to press and hold a “lock” button or another combination of buttons for 5 to 10 seconds to unlock the control.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Water Filter
A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the dispenser and prevent the dispenser from working properly. The water filter should be replaced about every six months to maintain proper water flow and ensure water quality.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Door Switch
The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Control Board
The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Main Control Board
A refrigerator’s main control board governs most of the functions of the appliance including the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the main control board is more likely to be at fault.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Electrical Issues
Electrical issues in your Whirlpool refrigerator can disrupt its functionality and potentially lead to problems with cooling and other essential features. Here are common electrical issues that may occur and some possible solutions:
- No Power: If your refrigerator is completely unresponsive and not turning on, it could be due to a power supply issue or a problem with the power cord. Check the electrical outlet to ensure it’s working and that the refrigerator is properly plugged in.
- Flickering Lights: If the interior lights of your refrigerator are flickering or not working correctly, it may indicate a problem with the light bulb or the light socket. Try replacing the light bulb, and if the issue persists, inspect the light socket for damage.
- Faulty Control Board: The control board is the “brain” of the refrigerator and controls various functions. If it malfunctions, it can lead to temperature irregularities, unusual error codes, and other issues. A professional technician may need to replace the control board.
- Defective Start Relay: The start relay is responsible for initiating the compressor’s operation. If it’s faulty, the refrigerator may not cool properly. This issue requires professional diagnosis and replacement.
- Wiring Problems: Loose or damaged wiring within the refrigerator can lead to electrical issues. Carefully inspect the internal wiring for any visible damage and reconnect or replace as needed.
Potential Solutions:
- Check the Power Supply: Ensure that the refrigerator is properly plugged into a working electrical outlet. Test the outlet with another appliance to verify that it’s functioning.
- Replace Light Bulbs: If the interior lights are flickering or not working, replace the bulbs with new ones. Ensure the replacement bulbs match the recommended wattage.
- Professional Diagnosis: Electrical issues involving the control board, start relay, or complex internal wiring typically require professional appliance repair. Expert technicians can identify the problem and replace faulty components.
- Safety First: When dealing with electrical issues, always unplug the refrigerator before attempting any repairs or inspections. Electrical problems can be dangerous, so if you’re uncertain, it’s best to consult a professional technician to ensure your safety and prevent further damage.
If you suspect electrical issues with your Whirlpool refrigerator, it’s essential to address them promptly to prevent further complications. Professional appliance repair services can accurately diagnose and repair these problems, ensuring your refrigerator operates safely and efficiently.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Door Seal Problems
So your Whirlpool refrigerator door won’t stay closed? We are here to help with some of the most common issues, check them out below!
Gasket Issues
One reason your Whirlpool refrigerator isn’t staying closed is that the gasket, or seal, around the door is damaged. The gasket can also be pulled out of place as well. If it’s not sealing it will prevent the natural suction that occurs when the gasket closes on the fridge and can make it stay loose.
A damaged gasket can also cause cool air to escape, which causes the fridge to have to work harder to stay cold. You’ll want to check the gasket for any cracks, tears, or places where it might be coming loose. If the gasket is damaged, it will need to be replaced.
A dirty gasket can also cause issues with the seal. Clean it by using a damp cloth and soapy water. Wipe down the entire gasket, getting into all the nooks and crannies. Once it’s clean, rinse it off with clean water and dry it completely. If you notice any damage after cleaning, then you’ll need to replace it.
Door Alignment Issues
If your refrigerator door isn’t staying closed, it could also be because the door isn’t aligned properly. This can happen if the fridge is bumped or moved. To fix this, you’ll need to adjust the hinges. First, open the door and then loosen the screws that hold the hinge in place. Next, move the door until it’s aligned properly, and then tighten the screws.
Something Is Blocking The Door
Sometimes the reason the door won’t stay closed is that something is blocking it. This could be a food item that’s been placed in front of the door, or it could be something else like a box or bag. Whatever the case may be, you’ll need to remove whatever is blocking the door so that it can close properly.
Refrigerator Isn’t Level
Another reason the door might not be staying closed is that the refrigerator isn’t level. If the fridge isn’t level, it can cause the door to swing open. It can also prevent it from sealing properly. To fix this, you’ll need to level the fridge. You can do this by adjusting the legs on the bottom of the fridge.
These are some of the most common reasons why your Whirlpool refrigerator door won’t stay closed.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Frost or Ice Buildup
Whirlpool Freezer Defrost Thermostat
The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the thermostat contacts will not close. As a result, the thermostat won’t provide power to the defrost heater. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it.
Whirlpool Freezer Defrost Control Board
The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the freezer will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.
Whirlpool Freezer Defrost Timer
The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, the defrost timer is likely defective and should be replaced.
Whirlpool Freezer Defrost Heater Assembly
In a self-defrosting freezer, the defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.
Whirlpool Freezer User Control and Display Board
On some models the user control and display board may also control the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the user control and display board, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components are defective, consider replacing the user control and display board.
Whirlpool Freezer Control Board
The control board has relays that send power to the freezer components. If the control board is defective, it may stop sending voltage to the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the control, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components are defective, consider replacing the control board.
Whirlpool Freezer Main Control Board
The main control board regulates the power supplied to all of the freezer components, including the defrost system. If the main control board is defective, it may stop sending voltage to the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the main control, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.
Manual Defrost
Chest freezers and some upright freezers with the evaporator tubing in the shelves are manual defrost. This means you will have to unplug or turn off the freezer for a period of time to clear the frost/ice. If the accumulation is 1/4″ to 1/2″ thick, the freezer will need to be defrosted.
Whirlpool Freezer Door Gasket
If the door gasket is not sealing properly, ice can form where the leak is. Inspect the door gasket for kinks or twists. You can use a hair dryer to try smoothing out the kinks. If the door gasket is damaged it will need to be replaced.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Unusual Noises
You may hear a hissing noise when refrigerant is flowing through the cooling system — this is normal and nothing to worry about.
Why is my refrigerator making a gurgling or dripping noise?
Gurgling or dripping noises are generally normal refrigerator sounds that may occur when ice melts during the defrost cycle and water runs into the drain pan. If you notice water spillage from your refrigerator along with the dripping noise, contact a certified technician, as it may indicate a leak.
Why is my refrigerator humming or pulsating?
You may hear a humming or pulsating sound if your refrigerator’s ice maker isn’t connected to the water supply, but the water valve is still opening and closing. Check that the ice maker is turned off if your refrigerator isn’t connected to a water supply.
Why is my refrigerator making noise like creaking or cracking?
If your fridge has an ice maker, you may hear a creaking or cracking sound as ice is ejected from the ice maker mold and falls into the bin. This is a normal refrigerator noise.
Why is my refrigerator or freezer making noise like popping?
A popping noise is a normal sound a refrigerator makes as its inside walls contract and expand, which may happen as it cools down for the first time or defrosts.
Why is my refrigerator compressor noise lasting so long?
New refrigerators have a high-efficiency compressor. This refrigerator part may run longer than older models in order to consume only the energy necessary for optimum efficiency. This is normal, and you may also hear it if the room is warm, a lot of food was just added, or if the doors are open often or were accidentally left open.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Faulty Ice Maker
Gone are the days of manually filling and refilling ice trays, or so you thought. The frustration of an ice maker struggling to keep up, or failing altogether, can cause hiccups in your family’s daily routine. Walk through this ice maker troubleshooting guide to learn more about some of the most common causes of an ice maker on the fritz, and help find solutions that are often simple enough to tackle yourself.
Ice maker is not working or not making enough ice
An ice maker that doesn’t produce can feel like nothing more than a waste of precious refrigerator or freezer space. Browse some of the common causes below that may help you pinpoint why your ice maker stopped working properly, or why your ice maker is not making enough ice, including simple solutions you can try yourself.
Cause: Your filter works hard to help reduce contaminants in your water, but can become clogged with particles it may trap over time. A clogged filter can send less water to the ice maker, which may cause a decrease or halt in ice production.
Solution: Be sure to change your refrigerator’s water filter once every six months, and be on the lookout for signs of an old filter. Some indicators may include odd tasting ice or water, slowly dispensed water, black specks in water or ice and, of course, limited to no ice production.
Cause: If your water filter is up-to-date, the water inlet valve for your ice maker might be the culprit. With the right amount of water pressure, the valve opens and closes to feed water through to the ice maker. A valve with pressure less than 20 psi (pound-force per square inch) won’t be strong enough to feed the right amount of water into the ice maker.
Solution: First, check the water pressure feeding the valve with your own equipment or the assistance of a professional. If the pressure is sufficient at 20 psi or higher, it means you may need to replace the water inlet valve.
Cause: Your ice maker may not be able to keep up with its intended rate of ice production when the refrigerator or freezer temperatures are set too high, resulting in slow ice production, cubes that are too small or no ice production at all.
Solution:Check the refrigerator temperature and freezer temperature, ensuring that the freezer is set to 0°F (-18°C), and the refrigerator temperature is somewhere in the range of 33–40°F (0–4°C).
Cause: On select models, the ice maker’s control arm is a large plastic or metal handle that rests on the side or top of the ice bin, and is responsible for gauging ice levels in the bin and pausing ice production when the bin is full. If the control arm comes loose, breaks or is accidently pushed into the off position, it could lead to halted ice production.
Solution: Check the control arm to ensure that it’s in the “on” position. Tighten the arm if it seems loose, or contact a professional if the arm is completely broken.
Cause: You may find yourself stuck with a frozen water line when the temperature in the freezer or refrigerator compartment is set too low, or the insulation surrounding the water line isn’t helping to prevent freezing.
Solution: The water line is located behind the ice maker, so accessing it typically requires completely removing the ice bin and maker. You may unfreeze the waterline at home with warm water or air, but it’s best to leave it up to a professional with unique tools that assist with the job.
Ice maker is making ice, but is not dispensing
A dispenser refusing to release cubes into your cup can be frustrating, especially when the ice bin is visibly full. Some of the most common causes, and their potential solutions, include:
Cause: The auger inside the bin of your ice maker is designed to break up ice clumps that form, but an ice maker that isn’t used often may form larger chunks than the auger can take on. If you’re hearing a loud grinding sound when you try to use your ice maker, this is likely the culprit.
Solution: Small ice chunks can be removed or broken up with your hands, but larger or more solidified chunks may require removing and completely defrosting the ice bin.
Cause: Ice that dispenses at unusual angles can temporarily block the chute, and large chunks not properly broken up can block it entirely. Check for ice that’s lodged in the dispenser by bending over and carefully looking up into the chute.
Solution: If you see a handful of loose cubes, jiggle them free to release them. If ice in the chute seems lodged or stuck, it’s best to place a catch under the dispenser and give the ice time to melt on its own. This helps protect the chute from the potential damage of dings or breaks caused by chipping at the ice.
Cause: Ice makers that don’t get much use may be susceptible to parts freezing over, including the auger motor located behind the freezer wall. A frozen auger may not function to move new cubes forward towards the chute, so you may be able to get a few cubes before the ice maker stops dispensing.
Solution: Defrosting the auger motor can be hard on the motor and the melting moisture may damage it, so it’s best to reach out to a professional for help getting everything running smoothly again.
The ice maker is making too much ice
Ice maker control arms are designed to sense a full ice bin and pause ice production at the right times, so an overflowing ice bin can be a sign that something’s not right. As you narrow down the cause of too much ice production, it may be helpful to turn your ice maker on and off as needed to avoid overflow. Luckily, common causes and solutions to excess production may often be simple and include:
Cause: An ice bin not positioned correctly may cause ice to miss the bucket when it’s ejected from the mold, giving the appearance of ice overflowing.
Solution: Double check the bin’s location, making sure it’s positioned correctly to catch any ice that comes from the mold above.
Cause: Your ice maker’s control arm likely looks like a large plastic or metal handle that rests on the side or top of the ice bin, and is designed to raise with or sense the ice level and shut the ice maker off once the bin is full. A broken or damaged control arm may not signal the ice maker to stop ice production, leaving you with a mess of excess cubes to clean up.
Solution: Check that the control arm is firmly attached and has no breaks or cracks. If it appears broken, contact a professional for help with a diagnosis and replacement or repair.
Cause: Some refrigerator models may require a shelf designed to elevate the ice bin and aid the control arm in judging the level of ice in the bin. If your refrigerator is missing this shelf, you may experience an over-active ice maker.
Solution: Check your user manual or use and care guide to make sure all shelving is accounted for in your refrigerator, and contact your manufacturer if you’re in need of a replacement.
The ice has an odd taste
Strange-tasting ice in your favorite drink can be an unpleasant surprise, and may leave you wondering what’s wrong with your ice maker. If you have already cleaned your ice machine, another issue may be at the root of the problem. Some common causes, and solutions, for odd-tasting ice include:
Cause: One of the most common causes for strange ice and water flavors is a worn-out water filter. The filter traps contaminants and, without proper maintenance, may become too clogged with particles to do its job effectively. Your filter is essential in helping prevent odd ice flavors from your local water supply.
Solution: Keep up a regular maintenance routine of changing your water filter every 6 months to avoid the odd taste and contaminants that accompany expired water filters.
Cause: Ice that’s been in the freezer for long can be more prone to contamination than fresh ice, and can become stale if it absorbs odors from the food in the refrigerator or freezer.
Solution: Try dumping old ice and steadily rotate ice from the ice maker if you don’t plan to use it regularly.
Cause: Placing poorly wrapped food into the freezer, especially next to the ice bin, gives ice the chance to absorb potentially potent odors as food goes from fresh to frozen.
Solution: Use freezer-friendly supplies for packaging and wrapping frozen foods, to help ensure that frozen food maintains its quality longer and ice cubes are spared the exposure to odors.
The ice maker is leaking
A leaky ice maker might drip into the ice bin and may cause ice clumps to form, or leak outside of the refrigerator or freezer and create a puddled mess on the surface below. Some of the most common causes of, and potential solutions for, a leaky refrigerator ice maker include:
Cause: Ice clumps can form in the ice bin or the dispenser chute for a variety of reasons, which may result in a leak when compartment temperatures fluctuate or ice in the chute comes in contact with warmer air outside of the refrigerator.
Solution: Gently break up blockages with a long plastic or wooden handle, like a spatula, for hard-to-reach places. Some ice clumps may be too large or lodged to break up without damaging the unit. In this case, remove and defrost the ice bin or, if ice is lodged in the dispenser, place a towel and dish below the chute and allow the ice to thaw naturally.
Cause: Ice in your refrigerator may melt slightly when there’s fluctuation in temperature within the compartment. An unbalanced refrigerator can prevent melted ice from accessing the drain intended to carry it away, which may result in leaky water pooling in the ice bin or traveling outside of the area.
Solution: First, use a leveler to ensure that the ice maker floor is level. If the results show any misalignment, you may need to reinstall the ice maker to ensure it’s level, or adjust the refrigerator feet if the entire unit is unlevel.
Cause: The ice trays, or fill cup, built into your ice maker are filled by a water spigot located near the tray. If the spigot and fill cup are misaligned, water may not make it into the fill cup and will leak directly into the icemaker. This water pools and may leak out of the bin before it can freeze.
Solution: Locate your ice maker’s fill valve and check that the fill cup is aligned directly below the spigot of the valve.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Leaking Water
Your hard-working refrigerator operates around the clock, keeping food fresh and cold. But even this kitchen workhorse can fall victim to leaks that threaten its function. What can you do when your Whirlpool refrigerator is leaking? Check the water lines for damage or loose connections that can drip water. Troubleshoot a leaky Whirlpool refrigerator with these time-saving tips.
Leaky Whirlpool Refrigerator? Here’s What To Do.
Refrigerator leaks don’t have to spell disaster and some can be resolved with a DIY repair. We’ll list the most common sources of a leaky Whirlpool refrigerator to help pinpoint the right solution.
Refrigerator Water Line Leak
If your Whirlpool refrigerator leaks water from behind, a loose or damaged water line may be the cause. This flexible plastic line connects the refrigerator to your home water supply, providing drinking water and/or ice. Often, Whirlpool refrigerator line leaking occurs at the fittings where the line joins your home supply. Also, the line itself can kink, creating cracks that leak water.
Move the refrigerator away from the wall and inspect the line, tightening any loose fittings that may be leaking. While a kinked water line can be gently straightened, if the kink caused a hole or crack, it must be replaced.
Leaky Whirlpool Water Filter
Water filters are often the cause of refrigerator leaks. If you find your Whirlpool refrigerator leaking water from water dispenser or the refrigerator not dispensing properly, the filter may be responsible.
These filter malfunctions can result in leaks:
- Filter is damaged: Inspect the filter for signs of damage, like a cracked filter head or missing o-ring. A damaged filter must be replaced.
- Incorrect installation: Check your Whirlpool user manual to make sure the filter was installed correctly, removing the filter and replacing it if necessary.
- Wrong filter installed: Replacing the original filter with a generic brand can result in an improper fit that causes leaks. Always use an OEM filter to ensure proper fit.
Clogged Defrost Drain
A Whirlpool refrigerator leaking from back behind the produce drawers may have a clogged defrost drain. This drain transports water from the defrost system to the drain pan beneath the refrigerator. Where is the defrost drain on a Whirlpool refrigerator? Most are behind a panel on the rear freezer wall. Given this location, sometimes residual water droplets inside the drain can freeze, creating a blockage that causes leaks. Fortunately, a clogged defrost drain can usually be resolved with a DIY fix.
Refer to your user manual to determine the exact location of the drain and how to remove the rear freezer panel. Once the drain is accessible, use a turkey baster to flush the drain with hot water and melt the blockage.
Refrigerator Drain Pan Leaks
A leaky Whirlpool refrigerator drain pan can result in leaks underneath the refrigerator to the floor below. The drain pan collects residual water from the refrigerator’s various systems until it evaporates with the aid of the condenser fan. If the pan isn’t level with the floor or suffers damage like cracks or warping, leaks can occur.
Some drain pans are easily accessible behind the refrigerator’s lower grille. After removing the grille, inspect the pan for damage and make sure it’s installed correctly. A damaged pan should be replaced.
Water Inlet Valve Failure
The water inlet valve opens and closes, providing the refrigerator with water from your home supply, as needed. It’s typically located behind a panel on the lower rear side of the fridge, where the water line connects to the refrigerator. If the valve cracks or a fitting becomes loose, it can also lead to leaking underneath the refrigerator.
Move the refrigerator away from the wall and turn off the water supply before removing the rear panel and inspecting the valve. While loose fittings can be tightened to stop the leak, a damaged valve should be replaced by a professional refrigerator repair service.
Whirlpool Refrigerator Inadequate Cooling
There are several causes for a refrigerator that doesn’t cool, including dirty condenser coils, poor ventilation, improper installation, faulty or dirty gasket seals, unorganized food storage, appliance location and malfunctioning internal parts. Understanding the cause of a refrigerator that’s not cooling properly is the first step to fixing the problem. Some of these causes can be discovered and resolved with a little elbow grease, while others may require the help of a licensed technician.
Troubleshooting Guide: Whirlpool Refrigerator Not Cooling
Our clients will sometimes ask, “Why is my Whirlpool fridge not cooling?” We advise initial Whirlpool refrigerator troubleshooting before we send in the big guns – our experts in refrigerator repair.
Possible Cause #1: Dirty Condenser Coils
Dirty condenser coils are the most common cause for a Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling. Condenser coils dissipate heat as the refrigerant passes through them. If the coils are clogged in dirt and debris, they can’t release the heat properly. You may have even noticed your refrigerator is noisy, which can be due to your fridge working harder to maintain a proper temperature.
Clean the Condenser Coils
- Pull fridge away from the wall – allows better access to the back and underneath of unit. The coils are snake-like in shape and often located under the refrigerator. You may also have a toe guard at the bottom front of the fridge that can be removed for better cleaning.
- Vacuum – use a narrow hose attachment to vacuum all the coils and external hardware on the refrigerator.
- Use a Dryer Brush – scrub the coils with a dry brush to remove stubborn debris. These brushes can be purchased on Amazon or your local grocery/hardware store.
- Vacuum – give one more vacuum to remove all remaining dirt.
Possible Cause #2: Door Seal is Loose
The second most common cause for a Whirlpool refrigerator not cool is a defective door seal. If the door seal is loose or damaged, your fridge won’t cool properly. The door seal ensures the cold air inside the refrigerator is locked inside rather than leaking into your kitchen. Check the door seal for damage, gaps, or other defects. If you don’t have a tight door seal, replace it.
Possible Cause #3: Temperature isn’t Set Properly
Is your Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling but freezer is working? Check your temperature setting. Refer to your owner’s manual for the optimal temperature setting for your particular model.
Possible Cause #4: Power Failure
In the event of power failure:
- Check the cord – ensure it is snugly connected to the power outlet.
- Inspect the cord – look for signs of damage. Replace cord if damaged or showing signs of wear and tear.
- Check circuit breaker – check to make sure you didn’t blow a fuse, and if so, flip it back on.
Possible Cause #5: Part Failure
If you have checked the above causes and still have a Whirlpool refrigerator not cool, then you may have a broken condenser fan motor, failed thermostat, or other part failures, which means it’s time to call an appliance technician for repair.
