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U-Line Refrigerator freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm

The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over

The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.

U-Line Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

Door not closing all the way

If a door is slightly open, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The door bin may be hitting the shelf causing the door to stay slightly open. Food Items in the door bins and shelves can also keep the door from closing. Make sure the shelves and door bins are in the proper locations. Avoid overloading the door bins and shelves.

U-Line Refrigerator Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from running properly, resulting in the refrigerator compartment not cooling as expected. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Door Gasket

A refrigerator door gasket should form an airtight seal around the appliance’s frame to keep the cold air in and the warm air out. If the door gasket is twisted or torn, gaps can form that will allow warm air in, resulting in the refrigerator compartment being warm even though the freezer compartment is cold. Inspect the door gasket for any damage and replace with a new one if necessary.

U-Line Refrigerator Damper Control Assembly

The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won’t let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.

U-Line Refrigerator Thermistor

The thermistor monitors the refrigerator temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board then regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when necessary, or may run too frequently. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. This will result in cooling problems where the freezer compartment might appear to be cold but the refrigerator compartment is warm. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for electrical continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Temperature Control Board

The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the control board is faulty, it may stop sending voltage to the compressor or fan motors. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat

The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the defrost heater may not activate. This will cause the evaporator coils to frost over which can result in cooling problems where the freezer compartment might appear to be cold but the refrigerator compartment is warm. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for electrical continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Control Board

The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the defrost control board fails, the refrigerator will not run the defrost cycle, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the refrigerator will work harder to remove heat. As a result, the refrigerator may be too warm. If the defrost thermostat and defrost heater are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective and will need to be replaced.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Timer

The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it might not advance into the defrost cycle, or it might not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. If the defrost system isn’t working, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the refrigerator will have to work harder to remove heat. As a result, the refrigerator may be too warm. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, the control board is very rarely the cause of the problem. Before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of these components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

U-Line Refrigerator Control Board

The control board might be defective. However, the control board is very rarely the cause of the problem. Before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of these components are defective, consider replacing the control board.

U-Line Refrigerator Damper Control

The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won’t let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.

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U-Line Refrigerator defrost drain clogged

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator defrost drain clogged

U-Line Refrigerator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator’s defrost drain is clogged, it’s possible the evaporator fan motor is not working. If the evaporator fan is not running, cold air from the evaporator can migrate to the defrost drain causing ice buildup in the drain. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor. 

Clogged or Freezing Defrost Drain

The defrost drain might be clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. You can use a turkey baster and warm water to help clear out a frozen defrost drain and tube. You should also make sure the drain tube trap is clear by the drain pan.

U-Line Refrigerator Drain Strap

Some defrost drains are outfitted with a drain strap. The drain strap is a small piece of copper or aluminum that attaches to the defrost heater and extends partway into the defrost drain. When the defrost heater turns on, heat is conducted through the drain strap to melt away any ice that may have accumulated further down in the defrost drain. If the drain strap is not in place, the defrost drain may be more likely to freeze over.

U-Line Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator’s defrost drain is clogged, it’s possible the evaporator fan motor is not working. If the evaporator fan is not running, cold air from the evaporator can migrate to the defrost drain causing ice buildup in the drain. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor. 

U-Line Refrigerator Drain Heater

Some refrigerators are equipped with drain heaters. Drain heaters prevent the water in the drain pan from re-freezing and clogging the defrost drain. If your drain heater is defective or is not in the proper position, the defrost drain might freeze over.

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U-Line Refrigerator is noisy or loud

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator is noisy or loud

U-Line Refrigerator Fan Blade

If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when one of the doors are opened, either the evaporator or condenser fan blade may be at fault. First, check out the evaporator fan blade in the freezer behind the back panel. Try turning it by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. Additionally, check the condenser fan blade in the back underside of the refrigerator to determine if it has any obstructions.

Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.

U-Line Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor

When the evaporator fan motor in the freezer behind the rear panel fails, it often generates a lot of noise. This noise will be much louder when the refrigerator door is opened. If the evaporator fan is noisy, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Damper Control Assembly

On many refrigerator models, a damper control assembly is used to control the air flow from the freezer compartment to the refrigerator compartment to maintain the appropriate air temperature. The assembly accomplishes this by opening and closing a small door. As the damper control assembly ages, the action of opening and closing the damper door can become noisy or loud. If the damper control assembly has become increasing noisy, you can replace the old assembly with a new one.

Refrigerator not level

If the refrigerator is not level it can vibrate or rattle. Ensure the unit is level and stable on the floor. Most refrigerators front legs or rollers are adjustable.

U-Line Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly

If a refrigerator is making a loud noise near the ice maker when the unit is cycling, it’s likely that either the ice maker’s drive motor or motor module is beginning to fail. While some of the ice maker components, such as the drive motor or module, may be sold separately for select models, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly.

U-Line Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor

There might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor bearings might be defective. The condenser fan motor is usually located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the rear access panel to access it.

U-Line Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Blade

If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when one of the doors are opened, the evaporator fan blade may be at fault. Check out the evaporator fan blade in the freezer or refrigerator behind the back panel. Try turning it by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. If the blade is damaged it will need to be replaced.

U-Line Refrigerator Condenser Fan Blade

If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, the condenser fan blade may be at fault. Check the condenser fan blade in the back lower section behind the panel to determine if it has any obstructions. Try turning it by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. If the blade is damaged it will need to be replaced.

U-Line Refrigerator Compressor

If the noise is coming from the compressor, the compressor might be damaged internally. The compressor internal components can wear out over time generating more noise than normal. The compressor is usually located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the rear panel to access it. Compressors often last for years after they become noisy. However, if your compressor is noisy, be aware that it is likely to fail. The compressor must be replaced by a licensed technician.

Compressor is noisy

When the refrigerator compressor first starts up there may be louder humming noise. It should quiet down after it runs for a few minutes.

U-Line Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve

If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, particularly when the ice maker is filling, the water inlet valve might be at fault. The water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply water to the refrigerator dispenser and icemaker. Over time, mineral deposits can accumulate inside the valve and restrict the water flow. If the water inlet valve is noisy or loud, replace it. Do not attempt to repair the water inlet valve—disassembling the valve can cause the valve to fail.

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U-Line Refrigerator not defrosting

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator not defrosting

Door left open

If the freezer or refrigerator door was left open for an extended period of time (e.g. more than 4 hours), frost may have accumulated on the food, evaporator coil and around the door opening. The frost should go away after the door is closed and the refrigerator goes through a defrost cycle.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Control Board

The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Timer

The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Door Gasket

A twisted or worn gasket can keep the door from closing properly. Inspect the door gasket for kinks or twists. You can use a hair dryer to try smoothing out the kinks. If the door gasket is damaged it will need to be replaced.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat

The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the thermostat contacts will not close. As a result, the thermostat won’t provide power to the defrost heater. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it. 

U-Line Refrigerator Thermistor

A thermistor monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. If the coils are below a set temperature, the thermistor will alert the defrost control to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the thermistor is defective, the defrost control will not be alerted to allow voltage to be sent to the defrost heater.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Sensor with Fuse

The defrost sensor monitors the temperature of the evaporator. The defrost sensor has a fuse to back up the sensor in case the sensor fails. If the defrost sensor fails to shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow in order to shut off the defrost heater. If the defrost sensor fuse blows, the defrost system will not work, and the refrigerator will not defrost. The defrost sensor fuse is not resettable—if the defrost sensor fuse blows, you must replace the defrost sensor. To determine if the defrost sensor or fuse is defective, use a multimeter to test both the sensor and fuse for continuity. If either the defrost sensor or fuse does not have continuity, replace the defrost sensor.

U-Line Refrigerator Main Control Board

The main control board regulates the power supply to all of the refrigerator components, including the defrost system. If the main control board is defective, it may stop sending voltage to the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the main control, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

U-Line Refrigerator Control Board

The control board regulates the power supply to all of the refrigerator components, including the defrost system. If the main control board is defective, it may stop sending voltage to the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the main control, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components are defective, consider replacing the control board.

U-Line Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

A temperature sensor monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. If the coils are below a set temperature, the sensor will alert the defrost control to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the temperature sensor is defective, the defrost control will not be alerted to allow voltage to be sent to the defrost heater.

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U-Line Refrigerator ice dispenser not working

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator ice dispenser not working

U-Line Refrigerator Dispenser Door

The dispenser door is opened by a motor or a solenoid to dispense the ice, but if the door is broken, it may not open properly in order to release the ice. You should inspect the dispenser door for damage to determine if the component should be replaced. You may have to remove the dispenser control panel or frame to access and inspect the dispenser door.

U-Line Refrigerator Dispenser Control Board

The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.

U-Line Refrigerator Dispenser Switch

The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Crushed/Cubed Ice Solenoid

The crushed/cubed ice solenoid is the component that opens and closes a door in the ice bucket auger housing to allow the fully formed ice cubes to pass through or to divert the cubes through a crushing blade system to crush the ice when that option is chosen. If you don’t hear a “clunk” sound when switching between the “Crushed” and “Cubed” ice options, it’s likely the crushed/cubed ice solenoid is defective. You can use a multimeter to test the solenoid for continuity, a continuous electrical path present in the component. If the solenoid has no continuity, the component is faulty and will need to be replaced.

U-Line Refrigerator Main Control Board

A refrigerator’s main control board governs most of the functions of the appliance including the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the main control board is more likely to be at fault.

U-Line Refrigerator Ice Bucket Assembly

On many refrigerators, the ice bucket assembly uses a separate auger motor to spin an auger blade and push the ice out of the bucket and down the dispenser ice chute. If the auger motor is turning but the ice is not dispensing, the ice bucket assembly may be damaged. Inspect the ice auger and drive coupler for cracks or excessive wear. Replace the ice bucket assembly if necessary.

Ice chute jammed

The ice chute may be jammed. Remove the cubes that are jamming the dispenser chute.

U-Line Refrigerator Dispenser Actuator

The dispenser actuator interacts with the dispenser switches, which power the auger motor and other dispenser components. If the dispenser actuator is broken, it may not activate the switches properly or at all. Inspect the dispenser actuator—if it is broken, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Auger Motor

The auger motor spins the auger blade and pushes the ice through the dispenser chute. If the auger motor is burned out or defective, the ice won’t move forward and fall through the chute. To determine if the auger motor is defective, pull out the ice bucket and turn the bucket auger by hand. If the auger turns freely, use a multimeter to test the auger motor for continuity. If the auger motor does not have continuity, or if the motor is getting power but won’t run, replace the auger motor.

Ice bucket jammed

Ice bucket may be jammed due to ice freezing around the auger. This can be caused by infrequent use, temperature fluctuations, and/or power outages. Remove ice container, thaw, and empty the contents. Clean container, wipe dry, and replace. When new ice is made, dispenser should operate properly.

U-Line Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly

If just the refrigerator’s ice dispenser is not working, you should first confirm that the ice maker assembly is functioning properly and producing ice. Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly. Before replacing the ice maker assembly, check the water inlet valve, water line, and fan. If none of these parts are at fault, and the freezer temperature is at least 15 degrees Fahrenheit, replace the ice maker assembly.

U-Line Refrigerator Dispenser Solenoid

The dispenser solenoid opens a door flap to release the ice and then closes the door flap once the dispenser finishes dispensing ice. If the dispenser solenoid is defective, the dispenser door won’t open. To determine if the dispenser door solenoid is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. In addition, check the dispenser actuator pin to ensure that it moves freely. If the dispenser door solenoid does not have continuity, or if the actuator pin does not move freely, replace the dispenser solenoid.

U-Line Refrigerator Ice Bucket Auger

When the dispenser lever is pressed, the auger motor rotates the auger. As the auger rotates, it pushes the ice toward the dispenser door and down the chute. If the auger is defective, it won’t be able to push the ice out of the dispenser. Check the auger to determine if it is broken or if it is disconnected from the auger motor. If the auger is broken, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Dispenser Door Motor

The dispenser door motor opens and closes the dispenser door to prevent cold air from escaping the freezer. If the dispenser door motor is defective, the dispenser door won’t open. As a result, the dispenser will not dispense ice. To determine if the motor is defective, first determine if the motor is getting power. If the motor is getting power, but it won’t run, replace it. You can use a multimeter to test the motor for continuity. If the dispenser door motor does not have continuity, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Ice Crusher Blade

If the ice crusher blades are jammed by ice, use warm water to melt the ice. If the ice crusher blades are bent or broken, replace them.

U-Line Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve

A refrigerator water inlet valve will direct water to a fill tube to fill the ice maker tray. If the inlet valve is obstructed, the solenoid coils on the valve are defective, or the home’s water pressure is too low, the water valve will not work properly. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Control Board

A refrigerator’s control board governs most of the functions of the appliance including the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.

U-Line Refrigerator Ice Bucket

On many refrigerators, an ice bucket will use a separate auger motor to spin an auger blade and push the ice out of the bucket and down the dispenser ice chute. If the auger motor is turning but the ice is not dispensing, the ice bucket assembly may be damaged. Inspect the ice auger and drive coupler for cracks or excessive wear. Replace the ice bucket assembly if necessary.

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U-Line Refrigerator ice maker not working

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator ice maker not working

U-Line Refrigerator Main Control Board

The refrigerator’s main control board controls the voltage being sent to the ice maker. If the control board is defective, the ice maker may not work at all. You can inspect the board for signs of damage or a shorted component. You can also use a multimeter to determine if voltage is reaching the ice maker after reviewing the refrigerator’s wiring diagram.

Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C)

If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the ice maker will not produce ice cubes efficiently. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15C) for the ice maker to work properly. If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.

U-Line Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply water to the dispenser and ice maker. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if it has insufficient pressure, it won’t allow water to flow through. As a result, the ice maker won’t make ice. The valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to check for power to the water inlet valve. If the water inlet valve has sufficient pressure and is getting power, but the ice maker won’t fill with water to make ice, replace the water inlet valve.

U-Line Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly

One component of the ice maker assembly might be defective. Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly. Before replacing the ice maker assembly, check the water inlet valve, water line, and fan. If none of these parts are at fault, and the freezer temperature is at least 15 degrees Fahrenheit, replace the ice maker assembly.

U-Line Refrigerator Fill Hose

If there is low water pressure coming into the refrigerator, or the water inlet valve is defective, the ice maker’s fill tube can become clogged with ice and prevent water from entering the ice maker tray. You can use a hair dryer to thaw out the frozen fill tube, but you should confirm the home has sufficient water pressure and the water inlet valve is functioning properly. If the fill tube appears damaged, you should replace it with a new fill tube.

Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the ice and water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.

Confirm icemaker is On

Make sure the icemaker is turned on and the arm or paddle is able to move freely. On in-door ice-dispensing models, with the door open make sure the indicator light stays on steadily when the ice dispenser flap and door switch are pressed.

Frozen fill tube on ice maker

If there is low water pressure coming into the refrigerator, or the water inlet valve is defective, the ice maker’s fill tube can become clogged with ice and prevent water from entering the ice maker tray. You can use a hair dryer to thaw out the frozen fill tube, but you should confirm the home has sufficient water pressure and the water inlet valve is functioning properly.

U-Line Refrigerator Door Switch

The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Ice Level Control Board

On some refrigerator models, an ice level control board and sensor will be used to determine how much ice is in the ice bucket. When the ice bucket fills to capacity, the ice level control board will automatically shut off the power to the ice maker. If the ice level control board is malfunctioning, it may not allow the ice maker to turn on at all. If the refrigerator has an in-door ice dispenser, open the door and check to see if the indicator light stays on steadily when the ice dispenser paddle and door switch are pressed. If not, the ice level control board is likely defective.

U-Line Refrigerator Control Board

The refrigerator’s control board controls the voltage being sent to the ice maker. If the control board is defective, the ice maker may not work at all. You can inspect the board for signs of damage or a shorted component. You can also use a multimeter to determine if voltage is reaching the ice maker after reviewing the refrigerator’s wiring diagram.

U-Line Refrigerator Icemaker Fill Tube Heater

The fill tube heater keeps the fill tube warm, to help prevent ice buildup, and keep water flowing to the icemaker.

U-Line Refrigerator Water Filter

A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the dispenser and prevent the ice maker from working properly. The water filter should be replaced about every six months to maintain proper water flow and ensure water quality.

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U-Line Refrigerator water dispenser not working

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator water dispenser not working

01 – U-Line Refrigerator Dispenser Actuator

The dispenser actuator is the component that activates the switch or switches to send voltage to the dispenser. If the dispenser actuator is damaged, it may be unable to activate the switch. Inspect the dispenser actuator for any damage and replace with a new one if necessary.

02 – Water Tube in Door is Frozen

To determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature. The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze.

03 – U-Line Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if the water pressure is too low, the water valve will not open. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.

04 – Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.

05 – Misaligned water filter

Water filter may not be seated properly. Remove and reinstall the water filter. For optimal performance, refrigerator water filters should be replaced every six months or after 200-300 gallons of water have been dispensed – whichever comes first. Replace the water filter if needed.

06 – Home’s water supply valve not fully open

The refrigerator is connected to a water supply valve that may not be fully open. If the water line was disconnected or the valve was shut off for service, it may not have been turned back on to the fully opened position.

07 – U-Line Refrigerator Dispenser Control Board

The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.

08 – U-Line Refrigerator Dispenser Switch

The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.

09 – U-Line Refrigerator Water Filter Housing

On many refrigerators, the incoming water will pass through a water filter before reaching the dispenser. If the water filter housing is damaged, water may not flow through the housing when the filter is installed. Inspect the water filter housing for damage and confirm it is properly seated. If necessary replace the damaged housing with a new one.

10 – Door Not Fully Closing

Check to see that the doors are closing properly. If a door bin or food item is keeping the door open slightly the refrigerator may not cool properly, which can cause the refrigerator to run constantly

11 – Water Dispenser Control is Locked

Make sure the water dispenser control is not locked. There will often be a lock symbol or other indicator to confirm the control is locked. When locked, neither the ice nor water dispenser will work. If the control is locked you will need to press and hold a “lock” button or another combination of buttons for 5 to 10 seconds to unlock the control.

12 – U-Line Refrigerator Water Filter

A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the dispenser and prevent the dispenser from working properly. The water filter should be replaced about every six months to maintain proper water flow and ensure water quality.

13 – U-Line Refrigerator Door Switch

The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.

14 – U-Line Refrigerator Control Board

The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.

15 – U-Line Refrigerator Main Control Board

A refrigerator’s main control board governs most of the functions of the appliance including the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the main control board is more likely to be at fault.

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U-Line Refrigerator not cooling

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator not cooling

Condenser Coils are Dirty

The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty—if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.

Freezer or refrigerator temperature is set too high

Verify the freezer temperature is set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15 Celsius). Verify the refrigerator temperature is set between 34 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 5 Celsius). After reseting the temperature wait 24 hours for the temperature to adjust appropriately.

U-Line Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

U-Line Refrigerator Door Gasket

A refrigerator door gasket should form an airtight seal around the appliance’s frame to keep the cold air in and the warm air out. If the door gasket is twisted or torn, gaps can form that will allow warm air in, resulting in the refrigerator not cooling properly. Inspect the door gasket for any damage and replace with a new one if necessary.

Incoming Power Problem

Ensure plug is tightly pushed into electrical outlet and outlet is supplying power. Check fuses or circuit breaker if needed. It is best to have the refrigerator on a seperate dedicated circuit. If the refrigerator is connected to a ground fault receptacle it may need to be plugged into a regular receptacle. Using a ground fault receptacle for a refrigerator is not recommended.

U-Line Refrigerator Damper Control Assembly

On many refrigerator models, a damper control assembly is used to control the air flow from the freezer compartment to the refrigerator compartment to maintain the appropriate air temperature. If a refrigerator is not cooling properly, it’s possible the damper door is stuck closed. Inspect the damper control assembly for any malfunction and replace it with a new one if necessary.

Sealed System Problem

If all the refrigeration components seem to be working, but the refrigerator is not cooling properly there may be a restriction or leak in the refrigeration system. To determine this, you will need to remove the evaporator cover and observe the frost pattern on the coil. Note: The compressor, condenser and evaporator fans should all be running, and the condenser coil should be clean and have good air flow. There should be light frost on most of the coil. If the coil has frost or ice buildup in only one section, there is likely a restriction or leak in the system. This repair is expensive (maybe cost prohibitive) and should be diagnosed and repaired by a qualified technician.

U-Line Refrigerator Start Relay

The start relay works in conjunction with the start winding to start the compressor. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the start relay is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets. If the start relay does not have continuity between the run and start terminal sockets, replace it. In addition, if the start relay has a burnt odor, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Control Board

The control board might be defective. However, this is almost never the cause. Before replacing the control board, test all of more commonly defective parts. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the control board.

U-Line Refrigerator Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Inverter Board

The inverter board is the component that cycles the compressor on and off. You can use a multimeter to test if power is reaching the compressor. If no power is reaching the compressor, the inverter board is likely defective and should be replaced.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. This will result in the refrigerator not cooling properly. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for electrical continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Start Capacitor

The start capacitor provides a boost of power to the compressor during start-up. If the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor may not start. As a result, the refrigerator will not cool. To determine if the start capacitor is defective, test it with a multimeter. If the start capacitor is defective, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat

The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the defrost heater may not activate. This will cause the evaporator coils to frost over resulting in the refrigerator not cooling properly. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for electrical continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it.

U-Line Refrigerator Thermistor

The thermistor monitors the refrigerator temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.

U-Line Refrigerator Temperature Control Board

The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the temperature control board is defective, it will stop sending voltage to the cooling system. However, this is not a common occurrence. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.

U-Line Refrigerator Compressor

The compressor is a pump which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the refrigerator won’t cool. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, check the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor. If there is an open circuit, the compressor is likely defective. If the compressor is defective, it must be replaced by a licensed technician.

U-Line Refrigerator Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, this is almost never the cause. Before replacing the main control board, test all of more commonly defective parts. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

U-Line Refrigerator Start Device

A start device, like a start relay, works in conjunction with the start winding to start the compressor. If the start device is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the start device is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets. If the start device does not have continuity between the run and start terminal sockets, replace it. In addition, if the start device has a burnt odor, replace it.

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U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line Refrigerator Major Issues

U-Line is a reputable brand known for its innovative and high-quality refrigeration solutions. U-Line Refrigerators are designed with precision and cutting-edge technology to meet the needs of modern households. From compact undercounter units to spacious built-in refrigerators, U-Line offers a range of options that combine style and functionality.

In this blog, we will explore common major issues that U-Line Refrigerator owners may face and provide insights into effective solutions. Some prevalent problems include cooling issues, strange noises, faulty ice makers, water dispenser malfunctions, and more. Our goal is to help you understand these issues and guide you on how our skilled technicians at Appliance Repair Los Angeles can assist in resolving them.

  1. U-Line Refrigerator not cooling
  2. U-Line Refrigerator water dispenser not working
  3. U-Line Refrigerator ice maker not working
  4. U-Line Refrigerator ice dispenser not working
  5. U-Line Refrigerator not defrosting
  6. U-Line Refrigerator is noisy or loud
  7. U-Line Refrigerator defrost drain clogged
  8. U-Line Refrigerator freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm
  9. U-Line Refrigerator leaking water
  10. U-Line Refrigerator freezing food
  11. U-Line Refrigerator ice and water dispenser not working
  12. U-Line Refrigerator light not working
  13. U-Line Refrigerator runs constantly
  14. U-Line Refrigerator control panel not working
  15. U-Line Refrigerator door not closing properly
  16. U-Line Refrigerator freezer not freezing
  17. U-Line Refrigerator ice is dirty
  18. U-Line Refrigerator is producing a burning smell
  19. U-Line Refrigerator freezer door or drawer not closing properly
  20. U-Line Refrigerator has frost or ice buildup
  21. U-Line Refrigerator has frost or moisture buildup around the door
  22. U-Line Refrigerator door(s) misaligned
  23. U-Line Refrigerator dispenser leaking water

If you are experiencing major issues with your U-Line Refrigerator, our team of highly skilled technicians at Appliance Repair Los Angeles is ready to help. We have the expertise and knowledge to diagnose and fix a wide range of problems efficiently.

For prompt and professional assistance with your U-Line Refrigerator, contact Appliance Repair Los Angeles at 323-792-1970. Our dedicated team is available to schedule a service appointment and address your U-Line Refrigerator major issues promptly.

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U-Line Refrigerator Error Code E14

U-Line Refrigerator Error Codes

U-Line Refrigerator Error Code E14

Error code E14 indicates a power failure. This means that the refrigerator has lost power for a period of time, usually more than 10 minutes.

Possible causes:

  • Power outage. This is the most likely cause of error code E14. If there has been a power outage in your area, the refrigerator will need time to cool down to the desired temperature.
  • Fuse or circuit breaker blown. If a fuse or circuit breaker has blown, it will need to be replaced.
  • Problem with the power cord or outlet. If the power cord is damaged or the outlet is not working properly, the refrigerator will not receive power.

Troubleshooting:

1. Check the power supply. Make sure that the refrigerator is plugged into a working outlet and that the fuse or circuit breaker is not blown.

  • If the power supply is working properly, the refrigerator will need time to cool down. Leave the refrigerator turned on for at least 24 hours before checking the temperature.
  • If the refrigerator does not cool down after 24 hours, contact a qualified refrigerator repair technician.

Without mentioning the company name:

Error code E14 indicates a power failure. This means that the refrigerator has lost power for a period of time, usually more than 10 minutes.

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