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Kitchenaid Dryer Error Code E2

Kitchenaid Dryer Error Codes

Kitchenaid Dryer Error Code E2

If you’ve encountered the KitchenAid Dryer Error Code E2 on your numeric display, it’s indicative of a temperature sensor circuit short. Fear not, as understanding the nature of this error and taking appropriate steps can get your dryer back in optimal working condition. Below is a detailed guide on the E2 error code and how to address it:

E2 Error Code: Temperature sensor circuit shorted. The temperature sensing circuit in your KitchenAid dryer has experienced a short, leading to the display of the E2 error code.

Possible Causes:

  1. Faulty Temperature Sensor: The temperature sensor responsible for monitoring the heat levels during drying cycles may be defective.
  2. Wiring Issues: A short circuit or damaged wiring in the temperature sensing circuit.

Troubleshooting and Resolution:

  1. Safety First: Before attempting any troubleshooting, ensure the dryer is unplugged to guarantee safety.
  2. Visual Inspection: Examine the wiring and connections associated with the temperature sensor for any visible signs of damage or wear.
  3. Check Temperature Sensor: Locate the temperature sensor in your KitchenAid dryer. Refer to the user manual if needed. Disconnect the sensor and measure its resistance using a multimeter. A significant deviation from the specified resistance indicates a faulty sensor.
  4. Replace the Temperature Sensor: If the temperature sensor is determined to be faulty, it’s advisable to replace it. Order a genuine KitchenAid replacement part to ensure compatibility.

In conclusion, understanding the nature of KitchenAid Dryer Error Code E2 and taking the necessary steps, including sensor replacement if needed, can bring your dryer back to its efficient best. Always prioritize safety and seek professional assistance for complex repairs.

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Kitchenaid Dryer Error Code E1

Kitchenaid Dryer Error Codes

Kitchenaid Dryer Error Code E1

If your KitchenAid dryer displays the error code E1, accompanied by a flashing numeric display, it indicates a temperature sensor open issue. This error arises when the temperature sensing circuit is disrupted or when the sensor itself malfunctions. Fear not; we’ve got a detailed guide to help you navigate through this challenge.

Error Code E1: Temperature Sensor Open – What Does It Mean?

The temperature sensor in your KitchenAid dryer plays a crucial role in regulating the heat during the drying process. When the circuit is open, it means there’s a break in the connection, and the sensor can’t effectively communicate with the dryer’s control board. This disruption triggers the E1 error code, signaling that immediate attention is needed.

Possible Causes of E1 Error:

  1. Faulty Temperature Sensor: Over time, temperature sensors can degrade or fail, leading to an open circuit.
  2. Wiring Issues: Loose or damaged wiring connecting the temperature sensor to the control board.

Troubleshooting Steps:

  1. Inspect the Temperature Sensor:

    • Locate the temperature sensor in your dryer. Consult your user manual if needed.
    • Check for visible signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections.
  2. Test the Sensor Continuity:

    • Use a multimeter to test the continuity of the temperature sensor.
    • If there is no continuity, it indicates an open circuit, and the sensor should be replaced.
  3. Examine Wiring Connections:

    • Inspect the wiring between the temperature sensor and the control board.
    • Ensure all connections are secure, and there are no damaged wires.
  4. Replace the Temperature Sensor:

    • If the sensor is faulty or if continuity testing indicates an open circuit, replacing the temperature sensor is recommended.

While some DIY enthusiasts may feel confident replacing a temperature sensor, it’s crucial to prioritize safety and accuracy. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with the process, or if the issue persists after replacement, it’s advisable to seek professional assistance.

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Kitchenaid Dryer Error Code PF

Kitchenaid Dryer Error Codes

Kitchenaid Dryer Error Code PF

When your KitchenAid dryer displays the error code PF, it’s signaling a power failure that occurred while the appliance was in operation. This error code, which stands for “Power Failure,” indicates a disruption in the electrical supply during the drying cycle. Here’s a detailed breakdown of what this error means and how to address it:

Description: The PF error code is a safeguard mechanism designed to inform users about an interruption in power while the dryer was running. This can happen due to a variety of reasons, such as a sudden power outage, electrical surges, or issues with the power supply to your home.

How to Handle KitchenAid Dryer Error Code PF:

  1. Press Start to Continue: If the PF error code appears, press the “Start” button to resume the drying cycle. The dryer should continue from where it left off before the power interruption.
  2. Press Pause/Cancel to Clear the Display: Alternatively, you can press the “Pause/Cancel” button to clear the PF error code from the display. This action stops the current cycle, and you can then choose to restart or select a new drying cycle.
  3. Check Power Supply: Verify that there are no issues with the power supply to your home. Check if other appliances are functioning, and if necessary, reset the circuit breaker or replace any blown fuses.
  4. Avoid Overloading Circuits: Overloading electrical circuits can contribute to power failures. Ensure that the dryer is not plugged into an overloaded circuit, and consider redistributing the load across different outlets.
  5. Consider a Power Surge Protector: To safeguard your KitchenAid dryer from power surges, consider using a surge protector. This device can help prevent sudden voltage spikes that may lead to interruptions.
  6. Consult Professional Assistance: If the PF error code persists despite these troubleshooting steps, it may indicate an underlying electrical issue. In such cases, it is advisable to consult a professional technician, like those at Appliance Repair Los Angeles, to assess and address the problem.

Understanding and responding to KitchenAid Dryer Error Code PF empowers you to manage power-related interruptions effectively. By following these steps, you can resume your drying cycles smoothly and keep your KitchenAid dryer operating optimally.

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Kitchenaid Washer Drum Not Spinning

Kitchenaid Washer Major Issues

Kitchenaid Washer Drum Not Spinning

01 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Motor Coupling

The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.

02 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Control Board

Since a washing machine control board provides voltage to nearly all of the washer’s electrical components, a faulty board may not be sending power to the drive motor during the wash or spin cycle. If power is not reaching the drive motor, you should first confirm the lid or door switch test properly with a multimeter. If the lid or door switch is working properly, the control board is likely at fault. You can inspect the board for signs of burning or a shorted-out component. You can also use a multimeter to test the power output terminals on the board after reviewing the appliance’s wiring diagram.

03 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drive Belt

Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.

04 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Timer

If a washer is not spinning or agitating, you should first determine if the drive motor is running and if power is reaching the drive motor. If no power if reaching the drive motor, and the lid swith assembly or door latch test appropriately with a multimeter, then the timer is likely malfunctioning. Since this is rarely the case, you should confirm all of the other likely defective components are functioning normally before considering a timer replacement.

05 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Lid Switch Assembly

The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

06 – Lid Not Fully Closed

On most top load machines the washer will not agitate or spin without the lid being fully closed. Close the lid after loading the washer and ensure there are no obstructions.

07 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drive Motor

The drive motor might be defective. However, the drive motor is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the drive motor, first check all of the more commonly defective washer components. If none of those components are defective, consider replacing the drive motor. To determine if the drive motor is defective, first ensure that the motor is getting power. If the drive motor hums but doesn’t run, is noisy, or does not turn freely, replace it.

08 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Stator Assembly

The stator interacts with the rotor to create a strong electromagnetic field which rotates the tub in either direction. If the windings on the stator are damaged, the washer will not spin or agitate. Check the stator for damaged windings or other defects.

09 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Suspension Rod

If a top-load washer won’t spin or agitate, a broken suspension rod could be making the tub unbalanced and unable to rotate properly. Inspect the suspension rods for damage and replace if necessary – it is recommended that all suspension rods be replaced at the same time for more even wear.

10 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drain Pump

A washing machine drain pump assists in removing the water from the tub by forcing the water through a drain hose to a laundry tub or drain pipe. Since water may be drained from the tub multiple times during a wash cycle, a defective drain pump may interrupt operation and prevent the tub from agitating or spinning. If there is still water in the tub after the washer stops, inspect the drain pump for any obstruction. You can also use a multimeter to test the drain pump for electrical continuity to help determine if the pump is able to function or not. 

11 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Door Latch

The door latch secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch will prevent the washer from operating. If the door latch is defective, the washer will not spin or start. The door latch can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door latch for damage. If the door latch is damaged, or does not close properly, replace it. To determine if the door latch has failed electrically, use a multimeter to test any switches on the door latch for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity when activated, replace the switch. 

12 – Incoming Power Problem

Confirm the washer is plugged in and there is power at the wall receptacle. You can plug another small appliance into the recepticle to confirm there is power. If there is no power, confirm the circuit breaker has not tripped.

13 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Main Control Board

If a washer is not spinning or agitating, you should first determine if the drive motor is running and if power is reaching the drive motor. If no power if reaching the drive motor, and the lid swith assembly or door latch test appropriately with a multimeter, then the main control board is likely malfunctioning. Since this is rarely the case, you should confirm all of the other likely defective components are functioning normally before considering a control board replacement.

14 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Motor Control Board

The motor control board provides power to the motor. If the motor control board is defective, the washer may not function properly or may not work at all. First, check the control board for burned out components. To determine if the motor control board is defective, ensure that the control board is providing power to the motor. If the control board has power, but is not providing power to the motor, replace it.

15 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Shift Actuator

A shift actuator is the component used on top-load washers to change the tub rotation from agitate to spin. If the tub is not spinning or agitating, a broken shift actuator may be responsible. You should inspect the component for damage and replace if necessary.

16 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Transmission

The washer transmission might be worn out or defective. Transmissions have gears in them that can fail causing the washer to not spin or agitate. However, this is almost never the case. Before replacing the transmission, first check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide. If the motor is turning the transmission, but the washer won’t spin or agitate, consider replacing the transmission.

17 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Shock Absorber

If a washer won’t spin or agitate, one or more of the shock absorbers might be broken or worn out, making the tub unbalanced and unable to rotate properly. Sometimes, when a washer is moved to another location, the shock absorbers can separate. Check the shock absorbers to ensure that they are positioned correctly, and inspect them for damage and wear. If one or more of the shock absorbers are broken or worn out, we recommend replacing all of the shock absorbers as a preventative measure.

18 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Suspension Spring

If a washer won’t spin or agitate, a broken suspension spring could be making the tub unbalanced and unable to rotate properly. Inspect the suspension springs for damage and replace if necessary – it is recommended that all springs be replaced at the same time for more even wear.

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Kitchenaid Washer Overfilling or Underfilling

Kitchenaid Washer Major Issues

Kitchenaid Washer Overfilling or Underfilling

01 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Water Inlet Valve

Try shutting off power to the washer while the machine is filling with water. If the washer continues to fill with water even when it is not getting power, this indicates that the water inlet valve is defective. If the water inlet valve is defective, replace it.

02 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Detergent Dispenser

Since most detergent dispensers use a water valve to flush the detergent or other additives into the washer, a leaking dispenser water valve can cause the washer to overflow. If water is constantly dripping or flowing into the dispenser and the water valves are part of the detergent dispenser the dispenser will need to be replaced.

03 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Main Control Board

A dishwasher’s main control board provides power to nearly every electrical component in the dishwasher. If the control board continues to send power to the water inlet valve during the drain cycle, the dishwasher could overflow. While this is not that common of a problem, you can inspect the board for signs of burning or a shorted-out component. You can also use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for incoming power during the dishwasher’s cycle.

04 – Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The water pressure to the water inlet valve might be too low. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water inlet valve does not get enough pressure, the valve may not close fully after the power is shut off. As a result, water can leak into the washer and cause it to overflow. If you have a whole house filter it may be clogged and the filter needs to be replaced. If the water pressure is low at all the faucets You may need to call your local water supplier to determine if the water pressure is sufficient.

05 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Pressure Switch

The pressure switch shuts off power to the water inlet valve when the proper water level is reached. If the pressure switch fails, the water inlet valve will continue to fill the washer tub with water, causing the washer to overflow. Before replacing the pressure switch, check the air tube to the pressure switch to ensure that it is clear of debris and is not leaking.

06 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Control Board

Since a washing machine control board provides voltage to nearly all of the washer’s electrical components, a board with a shorted component may send continuous voltage to the water inlet valve, causing the washer to overflow. You can inspect the board for signs of burning or a shorted-out component and use a multimeter to test the power output terminals on the board after reviewing the appliance’s wiring diagram. Some washing machine control boards will have a built-in pressure sensor used to determine how much water to allow into the tub. The control board pressure sensor monitors the amount of water entering the tub during the fill cycle and will shut off voltage to the water inlet valve when the water has reached the proper level. A defective control board pressure sensor may allow too much water to fill the tub resulting in the washer overflowing. You can use a multimeter to test for appropriate changes in electrical continuity to help determine if the component is defective. 

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Kitchenaid Washer Vibration or Shaking

Kitchenaid Washer Major Issues

Kitchenaid Washer Vibration or Shaking

01 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drain Pump

If the washer is vibrating or shaking only during the drain cycle, it’s likely that the drain pump is partially obstructed or malfunctioning in some other way. You should inspect the pump for any debris lodged in the ports and replace the component if you suspect it is malfunctioning.

02 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Shock Absorber

One or more of the shock absorbers might be broken or worn out. The shock absorbers dampen the vibration of the washer tub. If one or more of the shock absorbers are worn out, the washer will vibrate or shake. Sometimes, when a washer is moved to another location, the shock absorbers can separate. Check the shock absorbers to ensure that they are positioned correctly, and inspect them for damage and wear. If one or more of the shock absorbers are broken or worn out, we recommend replacing all of the shock absorbers as a preventative measure.

03 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Suspension Rod

One or more of the suspension rods might be broken. The suspension rods help to dampen the movement of the washer tub. If one or more of the suspension rods are broken, the washer will vibrate or shake. To determine if the suspension rods are at fault, check the rods to determine if any of them are broken. If a suspension rod is broken, replace it.

04 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Suspension Spring

One or more of the suspension springs might be broken. The suspension springs help to absorb the movement of the washer tub. If a suspension spring breaks, the tub might become unbalanced, causing it to shake and vibrate during operation. Inspect the suspension springs to determine if any of the springs are broken. If a suspension spring is broken, replace it.

05 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Transmission

If a top-load washer’s inner tub is loose when you try and rotate it by hand, then it’s likely the transmission could be worn out or damaged. Inspect the transmission and replace if necessary.

06 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Counter Balance Spring

One or more of the counterbalance springs might be broken. The counterbalance springs help to absorb the movement of the washer tub. If a spring breaks, the tub might become unbalanced, causing it to shake and vibrate during operation. Inspect the counterbalance springs to determine if any of the springs are broken. If a counterbalance spring is broken, replace it. Additionally, check the frame where the counterbalance springs are attached. If the frame is rusted, replace it.

07 – Machine not Level

If the machine is wobbling when you push on it, the leveling legs will need to be adjusted. Use a level across the top front and top side of the washer and adjust the legs as needed.

08 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Snubber Ring

The snubber ring dampens the vibration of the washer tub. If the snubber ring is cracked or worn out, the washer will vibrate or shake during operation. Inspect the snubber ring for damage. If the snubber ring is cracked or worn out, replace it.

09 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Snubber Pad

The snubber pad dampens the vibration of the washer tub. If the snubber pad is worn out missing, or coated with a sticky substance (such as detergent, fabric softener, or transmission oil), the washer will vibrate or shake during operation. Inspect the snubber pad. If the snubber pad is worn out or missing, replace it.

10 – Washer tub overloaded/unbalanced load

Too many items placed in the washer tub can put a strain on internal washer drive components resulting in vibration or shaking. Mixing heavy items (blankets, rugs) with lighter items (shirts, socks) can throw the tub off-balance when it spins, causing the appliance to vibrate and shake. Wash heavy items separately from light items and avoid overloading the tub by referring to the manufacturer’s recommended washing procedures

11 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Inner Tub

The washing machine’s inner tub rotates within the outer tub during the wash and spin cycles. If the inner tub is loose or noisy when you try to rotate it with your hand, it’s possible the tub is damaged and will need to be replaced. Since this is not a common problem, you should first inspect the transmission and tub bearings to confirm those components are in good condition.

12 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Balance Ring

The balance ring may have lost its fluid. The balance ring sits on top of the inner tub and helps to counter the force of the spin cycle. The balance ring is filled with fluid. This fluid helps to dampen the vibration of the washer. If this fluid leaks out of the balance ring, the washer tub will vibrate and shake during operation. Check the balance to determine if is still filled with fluid. If the balance ring is emptied of fluid, replace it.

13 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Shock Dampening Device

The shock dampening device helps to absorb the movement of the washer tub as it spins. If the shock dampening device is broken, the tub might become unbalanced, causing it to shake and vibrate during the spin cycle. Inspect the shock dampening device to determine if is broken. If the shock dampening device is broken, replace it.

14 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Rear Drum with Bearing

The rear drum has a bearing or bearings in it to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing system is defective the washer can develop a bad vibration. On some machines bearings are sold separately from the rear drum, however we recommend replacing both the outer drum and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together because removing and pressing in the new bearing can be exceptionally difficult. Be aware that replacing the outer tub and bearing is also not easy and can be very costly.

15 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Basket Drive

The hub or basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the inner tub is vibrating or shaking, the hub teeth may be stripped. Alternatively, the drive block which engages with the hub teeth may be stripped. Inspect both the hub and the drive block. If the hub teeth and drive block are not worn out, the clutch pads on the basket drive are likely worn out. If the clutch pads are worn out, you must replace the basket drive.

16 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Leveling Leg

Check to see if the washer is level, and adjust the leveling legs if necessary. Always lock the legs in place after adjustment to keep them from getting loose.

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Kitchenaid Washer Door Latch Problems

Kitchenaid Washer Major Issues

Kitchenaid Washer Door Latch Problems

Loading and Unloading Challenges:

One common problem with KitchenAid washers involves issues with the door latch, leading to challenges in loading and unloading laundry. If you find it difficult to open or close the washer door, it may indicate a malfunction in the door latch mechanism.

Latch Alignment and Adjustment:

A misaligned or improperly adjusted door latch can be a primary culprit. Over time, vibrations and regular use can cause the latch to shift, affecting its ability to engage properly. In such cases, a simple realignment or adjustment may resolve the problem.

Worn or Damaged Latch Components:

Continuous use can result in wear and tear of the door latch components. A worn latch may not engage securely, leading to operational issues. Additionally, physical damage to the latch or its surrounding parts can hinder proper functioning.

Detergent Residue and Blockages:

Accumulation of detergent residue or debris in the door latch area can impede its movement. Regular cleaning of the latch and its surroundings is crucial to ensure smooth operation. Use a mild cleaner to remove any buildup that might affect the latch’s performance.

Professional Inspection and Repair:

If door latch problems persist after basic troubleshooting, seeking the expertise of appliance repair professionals is advisable. Certified technicians, such as those at Appliance Repair Los Angeles, can conduct a thorough examination of the door latch mechanism, identifying any underlying issues and providing precise solutions. Whether it’s a matter of realignment, component replacement, or a thorough cleaning, professional intervention ensures a comprehensive resolution to door latch problems, restoring the smooth operation of your KitchenAid washer.

In conclusion, addressing KitchenAid washer door latch problems requires a combination of careful inspection, regular maintenance, and, when necessary, the assistance of experienced technicians to ensure the longevity and efficiency of your appliance.

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Kitchenaid Washer Spin Cycle Issues

Kitchenaid Washer Major Issues

Kitchenaid Washer Spin Cycle Issues

01 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Motor Coupling

The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.

02 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Control Board

Since a washing machine control board provides voltage to nearly all of the washer’s electrical components, a faulty board may not be sending power to the drive motor during the wash or spin cycle. If power is not reaching the drive motor, you should first confirm the lid or door switch test properly with a multimeter. If the lid or door switch is working properly, the control board is likely at fault. You can inspect the board for signs of burning or a shorted-out component. You can also use a multimeter to test the power output terminals on the board after reviewing the appliance’s wiring diagram.

03 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drive Belt

Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.

04 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Timer

If a washer is not spinning or agitating, you should first determine if the drive motor is running and if power is reaching the drive motor. If no power if reaching the drive motor, and the lid swith assembly or door latch test appropriately with a multimeter, then the timer is likely malfunctioning. Since this is rarely the case, you should confirm all of the other likely defective components are functioning normally before considering a timer replacement.

05 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Lid Switch Assembly

The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

06 – Lid Not Fully Closed

On most top load machines the washer will not agitate or spin without the lid being fully closed. Close the lid after loading the washer and ensure there are no obstructions.

07 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drive Motor

The drive motor might be defective. However, the drive motor is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the drive motor, first check all of the more commonly defective washer components. If none of those components are defective, consider replacing the drive motor. To determine if the drive motor is defective, first ensure that the motor is getting power. If the drive motor hums but doesn’t run, is noisy, or does not turn freely, replace it.

08 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Stator Assembly

The stator interacts with the rotor to create a strong electromagnetic field which rotates the tub in either direction. If the windings on the stator are damaged, the washer will not spin or agitate. Check the stator for damaged windings or other defects.

09 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Suspension Rod

If a top-load washer won’t spin or agitate, a broken suspension rod could be making the tub unbalanced and unable to rotate properly. Inspect the suspension rods for damage and replace if necessary – it is recommended that all suspension rods be replaced at the same time for more even wear.

10 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drain Pump

A washing machine drain pump assists in removing the water from the tub by forcing the water through a drain hose to a laundry tub or drain pipe. Since water may be drained from the tub multiple times during a wash cycle, a defective drain pump may interrupt operation and prevent the tub from agitating or spinning. If there is still water in the tub after the washer stops, inspect the drain pump for any obstruction. You can also use a multimeter to test the drain pump for electrical continuity to help determine if the pump is able to function or not.

11 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Door Latch

The door latch secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch will prevent the washer from operating. If the door latch is defective, the washer will not spin or start. The door latch can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door latch for damage. If the door latch is damaged, or does not close properly, replace it. To determine if the door latch has failed electrically, use a multimeter to test any switches on the door latch for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity when activated, replace the switch.

12 – Incoming Power Problem

Confirm the washer is plugged in and there is power at the wall receptacle. You can plug another small appliance into the recepticle to confirm there is power. If there is no power, confirm the circuit breaker has not tripped.

13 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Main Control Board

If a washer is not spinning or agitating, you should first determine if the drive motor is running and if power is reaching the drive motor. If no power if reaching the drive motor, and the lid swith assembly or door latch test appropriately with a multimeter, then the main control board is likely malfunctioning. Since this is rarely the case, you should confirm all of the other likely defective components are functioning normally before considering a control board replacement.

14 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Motor Control Board

The motor control board provides power to the motor. If the motor control board is defective, the washer may not function properly or may not work at all. First, check the control board for burned out components. To determine if the motor control board is defective, ensure that the control board is providing power to the motor. If the control board has power, but is not providing power to the motor, replace it.

15 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Shift Actuator

A shift actuator is the component used on top-load washers to change the tub rotation from agitate to spin. If the tub is not spinning or agitating, a broken shift actuator may be responsible. You should inspect the component for damage and replace if necessary.

16 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Transmission

The washer transmission might be worn out or defective. Transmissions have gears in them that can fail causing the washer to not spin or agitate. However, this is almost never the case. Before replacing the transmission, first check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide. If the motor is turning the transmission, but the washer won’t spin or agitate, consider replacing the transmission.

17 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Shock Absorber

If a washer won’t spin or agitate, one or more of the shock absorbers might be broken or worn out, making the tub unbalanced and unable to rotate properly. Sometimes, when a washer is moved to another location, the shock absorbers can separate. Check the shock absorbers to ensure that they are positioned correctly, and inspect them for damage and wear. If one or more of the shock absorbers are broken or worn out, we recommend replacing all of the shock absorbers as a preventative measure.

18 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Suspension Spring

If a washer won’t spin or agitate, a broken suspension spring could be making the tub unbalanced and unable to rotate properly. Inspect the suspension springs for damage and replace if necessary – it is recommended that all springs be replaced at the same time for more even wear.

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Kitchenaid Washer Not Draining

Kitchenaid Washer Major Issues

Kitchenaid Washer Not Draining

If you can’t use your washer, you can run out of clean clothes pretty fast. When your washer won’t drain after a wash cycle, you can’t use it, so you’ll want to fix it quickly.

This article will go through the most common problems that can cause a KitchenAid washer not to drain. It will also provide solutions you can try to solve your issue.

Check the Lid or Door Switch

Washers contain failsafe switches that will stop the wash cycle when the lid or door is open. This includes drainage. If your washer won’t drain, it’s possible that the switch on the lid or door is faulty and is not properly closing. This will stop the wash cycle and cause your machine to stop draining.

To test whether this is the case, press down firmly on the lid or door to apply extra pressure. If this kickstarts the draining process, contact a professional appliance repair technician and tell them you need to get the lid or door switch replaced.

Drain and Clear Your Washer

If the door or lid of your washer is closed properly and it still won’t drain, you will first need to drain the remaining wash water and remove the laundry before continuing to diagnose the problem.

The right way to manually drain your washer depends on the model.

For most top-loading washers, follow this method:

  1. Turn off the water supply to your washer at the faucet.
  2. Unplug the washer’s power connection at the wall.
  3. Take the washer out from the wall so you can access the back.
  4. Locate the drain hose. Typically, it will be a grey hose, while the hoses supplying the water to the washer will be blue and red.
  5. Follow the drain hose to where it connects to the wall outlet pipe. Place some towels and a large bucket there.
  6. Firmly pull the hose from the pipe to remove it; then aim the hose into the bucket. Drain until water stops flowing.
  7. Reconnect the drain hose to the wall outlet pipe.
  8. Replace your washer and turn the water and power back on.

If your model is a front-loader follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the water and power supply to your washer.
  2. Locate the service panel. This is typically located on the front panel of the washer at the bottom left or right-hand corner. Remove the panel.
  3. If your model has a drain hose, aim it into a large bucket, and remove the plug. Let it drain completely.
  4. If your model does not have a drain hose, place a large bucket in front of the filter cap, and remove the drain filter by twisting it counterclockwise and pulling it toward you. Be prepared for a large flow of water.
  5. Replace the drain hose plug or filter, and turn the power and water back on.

Ensure the Drain Hose Is Unblocked

A blockage or kink in the drain hose can stop your washer from draining. While you have the washer pulled out from the wall and the drain hose disconnected from the wall outlet pipe, take the time to check for these things.

Here’s what to look for:

  • Check along the length of the hose for kinks or sharp bends, and remove these by untwisting.
  • Clean around the wall outlet pipe with a wet cloth or dish brush to remove scum or mold buildups.
  • Carefully feel along the length of the hose for any foreign objects that could be blocking it. If there is something inside, you can squeeze it out or use a long, thin object, like a straw cleaning brush, to remove it.
  • Remove the other end of the drain hose from the washer, and use hot water and detergent to rinse the hose out before replacing it.

Unblock the Drain Filter

Wash water passes through the drain filter before being drained to stop foreign matter from being washed out with the wastewater.

The filter can become blocked, commonly with lint, earrings, hairpins, or even socks. If this happens, the washer won’t drain. Luckily, this is an easy problem to fix.

Here’s how to do it:

  1. Turn off the power and water to your washer.
  2. Manually drain any remaining wash water and remove clothes.
  3. Remove the drain filter. In front-loaders, this is located in the access panel, usually in the bottom left or right-hand corner of the front panel of the washer. In top-loaders, this is usually in the washer’s central column.
  4. Check the filter and its housing thoroughly for foreign objects and remove these.
  5. Use a dish brush, hot water, and detergent to thoroughly clean lint, gunk, or mold from the filter; then rinse with clean water.
  6. Replace the filter and reconnect the water and power supply to your washer.

Check the Sump Hose for Blockages

The sump hose connects the washer tub to the drain pump. It is a short, wide hose that can become blocked with larger objects like socks or jewelry. If it gets blocked, it can stop the washer from draining.

Here’s how to access the sump hose and clear it out:

  1. Turn off the water supply to your washer, and unplug the power supply at the wall.
  2. Drain any remaining wash water and remove clothes.
  3. Carefully take out the washer from the wall, and tip it over so it is laying on its back.
  4. Locate the pump hose. It is usually black or dark gray and is short but wide.
  5. Place down towels to catch any drips or spills.
  6. Remove each end of the hose. You may need to use pliers to loosen a jubilee clip or a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen a clamp holding the hose on at the connection points.
  7. Remove the sump hose and remove any objects inside. Use a dish brush, hot water, and detergent to clean it out thoroughly before rinsing with clean water.
  8. Replace the sump hose.
  9. Replace your washer and turn on the water and power.

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Kitchenaid Washer Unusual Noises

Kitchenaid Washer Major Issues

Kitchenaid Washer Unusual Noises

01 – Shipping bolts have not been removed

If the washer is new confirm the shipping bolts and packing material have been removed.

02 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Tub Bearing

The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together.

03 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Tub Seal and Bearing Kit

The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the washer is noisy during the spin cycle or is leaking from the bottom of the tub near the transmission, the tub seal and bearing are likely defective. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing the outer tub and bearing at the same time.

04 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Rear Drum with Bearing

The rear drum has a bearing or bearings in it to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing system is defective the washer can become very noisy. On some machines bearings are sold separately from the rear drum, however we recommend replacing both the outer drum and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together because removing and pressing in the new bearing can be exceptionally difficult. Be aware that replacing the outer tub and bearing is also not easy and can be very costly. 

05 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Bearing

The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing.

06 – Improperly balanced load

Confirm the load is balanced. If there are light items and heavy items in the same load the tub will spin out of balance. Wash items with aproximately the same weight together to better balance the load. One or two items will likey shift to one side and cause the tub to go out of balance. You may have to add more items to even out the load.

07 – Washer not level

The washer should be level with the feet sitting firmly on a solid floor. Level the appliance and adjust the legs if necessary.

08 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drive Pulley

The drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If the drive pulley is damaged or defective, replace it.

09 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Pulley

The drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If the drive pulley is damaged or defective, replace it.

10 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Shock Absorber

Many front-load washer tubs use shock absorbers to dampen tub movement during operation. If one of the shock absorbers becomes dislodged or breaks, the tub may begin shaking and hitting the sides of the washer cabinet, making a loud noise when the appliance is in the wash or spin cycle. It is recommended to replace all of the shock absorbers at the same time to reduce uneven wear.

11 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Suspension Rod

A top-load washer tub is usually supported by four suspension rods. If one of the suspension rods becomes dislodged or breaks, the tub may begin shaking and hitting the sides of the washer cabinet, making a loud noise during operation. Suspension rods will often come in a set of four and it is recommended to replace all four of the rods at the same time to reduce uneven wear.

12 – Foreign objects in the tub or pump

Foreign objects such as coins or safety pins may be in the tub or pump. Inspect the tub for foreign objects that may be rattling around. Most front-load washers have a cleanout to keep items from getting to the pump impeller. Check the cleanout if needed.

13 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Motor Coupling

The motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.

14 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Clutch

The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It helps the tub to gradually get up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out over time, it may become loud during the spin cycle or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable—if the clutch is worn out, replace it.

15 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drive Belt

The drive belt might be defective. Over time, the drive belt can dry or burn out and starts to crack. Eventually, a piece of the belt can break off, causing the belt to make a loud noise whenever the motor is running. To determine if the drive belt is broken, inspect the drive belt. If the drive belt is broken or damaged, replace it.

16 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Belt Kit

One of the drive belts might be defective. Over time, the drive belt can dry out and start to crack or burn. Eventually, a piece of the belt can break off, causing the belt to make a loud noise whenever the motor is running. To determine if the drive belt is broken, inspect the drive belt. If the drive belt is broken or damaged, replace it.

17 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Shift Actuator

A shift actuator is the component used on top-load washers to change the tub rotation from agitate to spin. If the washer is making a loud noise during operation, you should inspect the shift actuator for wear, damage, or noise and replace if necessary.

18 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Transmission

The washer transmission might be worn out or defective. Transmissions have gears in them that can fail causing the washer to to be noisy during operation. However, this is almost never the case. Before replacing the transmission, first check all of the other more commonly defective parts.

19 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drain Pump

If the washer is making a loud noise while draining, the drain pump might be clogged or defective. Sometimes, small objects or articles of clothing can get caught in the drain pump. To determine if anything is blocking the drain pump, remove the drain pump and check the pump for obstructions. If the drain pump is clear of obstructions, but is still noisy during the drain cycle, replace the drain pump.

20 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Drive Motor

The drive motor bearings might be worn out. Washer motors are normally very quiet during operation. To determine if the washer motor is defective, remove the drive belt from the washer and then run the motor. If the motor is still loud, this indicates that the drive motor is defective and needs to be replaced.

21 – KitchenAid Washing Machine Water Inlet Valve

If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve may be at fault. Over time, mineral deposits can build up inside the valve and cause a restriction. If the water inlet valve is restricted, it will make noise during the fill cycle. If the water inlet valve is defective, replace it. Do not attempt to repair the water inlet valve—taking apart the valve makes it susceptible to failure.

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