Kitchenaid Oven Error Code F1/E1
Encountering the KitchenAid Oven Error Code F1/E1 can be a frustrating experience, signaling a malfunction in the electronic oven control board. This crucial component serves as the brains of your KitchenAid oven, overseeing temperature regulation and various functions essential for precise cooking. When this error occurs, it demands attention and swift action to restore your oven to optimal functionality.
Understanding the Error:
The F1/E1 error code is a clear indicator of a breakdown in communication within the electronic oven control board. This failure can manifest in various ways, from inaccurate temperature readings to the inability to execute specific commands. Essentially, the electronic control board is at the heart of your oven’s operation, and a malfunction requires a thorough examination.
Diagnostic Steps:
Upon encountering the F1/E1 error, it is recommended to disconnect electrical power from the oven immediately. This serves as a precautionary measure to ensure safety during the diagnostic and repair process. Once the power is disconnected, the next step involves replacing the electronic oven control board.
Replacing the Electronic Oven Control Board:
The electronic oven control board replacement is a task best left to professionals. This intricate component requires precise handling, and a certified technician can efficiently install a new control board, ensuring compatibility and functionality. This replacement is the key to resolving the F1/E1 error and restoring your KitchenAid oven to its optimal performance.
Why Professional Assistance Matters:
While it may be tempting to attempt a DIY approach, the complexity of the electronic oven control board and the potential safety hazards associated with electrical components underscore the importance of seeking professional assistance. Appliance Repair Los Angeles stands ready to provide the expertise needed to diagnose, replace, and ensure the seamless operation of your KitchenAid oven.
In conclusion, the F1/E1 error code signals an electronic oven control board failure in your KitchenAid oven. Swift action, including disconnecting power and seeking professional assistance, is crucial to resolving this issue and bringing your oven back to life. Trust Appliance Repair Los Angeles for expert solutions tailored to your KitchenAid appliance needs.
Kitchenaid Oven Error Code F1/E0
If your KitchenAid oven displays the perplexing F1/E0 error code, you’re encountering a user interface failure. This error points to issues with the communication between the oven’s control board and the user interface, disrupting the seamless operation of your appliance.
Understanding the F1/E0 Error:
This error code, F1/E0, specifically denotes a failure in the user interface, which is the interactive control panel of your KitchenAid oven. It serves as the bridge between your commands and the oven’s internal systems. When this connection breaks down, it triggers the F1/E0 error, signaling that immediate attention is required.
- Electrical Glitch: Fluctuations or irregularities in the electrical supply can disrupt the communication between the control board and the user interface.
- Component Wear: Over time, the user interface or the control board may experience wear, leading to a breakdown in communication.
Troubleshooting Steps:
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Power Cycle:
- Begin by disconnecting electrical power from the oven.
- Wait for a few minutes before restoring power.
- Retry the oven to check if the error persists.
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Inspect for Visible Damage:
- Examine the user interface for any visible signs of damage, such as loose connections or physical wear.
- If damage is evident, consider replacing the user interface.
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Professional Assessment:
- Due to the complexity of the user interface and control board, it’s advisable to seek professional assistance, such as the experts at Appliance Repair Los Angeles.
- A certified technician can conduct a thorough examination to identify the root cause and recommend appropriate solutions.
When the F1/E0 error persists despite troubleshooting efforts, replacing the user interface becomes a crucial step. This involves disconnecting the power, uninstalling the faulty user interface, and installing a new, functional unit to restore seamless communication between you and your KitchenAid oven.
Kitchenaid Oven Error Codes
KitchenAid ovens are crafted with a perfect blend of style and functionality. With cutting-edge technology and a commitment to culinary excellence, KitchenAid ensures that your cooking adventures are seamless and enjoyable. From sleek designs to advanced features, these ovens are designed to meet the diverse needs of home chefs.
In our blog, we delve into the world of KitchenAid Oven Error Codes, demystifying the signals that may disrupt your cooking routine. Whether it’s a temperature sensor glitch, door latch problems, or issues with the oven’s electronic controls, Appliance Repair Los Angeles has the expertise to diagnose and resolve these issues promptly.
When faced with KitchenAid Oven Error Codes, trust the seasoned professionals at Appliance Repair Los Angeles to provide efficient and reliable solutions. Our team of skilled technicians is well-versed in the intricacies of KitchenAid appliances, ensuring that your oven operates at its optimal best. From decoding error codes to troubleshooting electronic components, Appliance Repair Los Angeles is your go-to partner for resolving KitchenAid Oven issues. We understand the importance of a functional oven in your kitchen, and our swift and effective services aim to restore normalcy to your cooking routine.
| Error Code |
Causes |
| F1/E0 |
User interface failure Learn More |
| F1/E1 |
Electronic oven control board failure Learn More |
| F2/E0 |
User interface won’t respond Learn More |
| F2/E1 |
Defective button on the user interface Learn More |
| F3/E0 |
Upper oven temperature sensor is defective Learn More |
| F3/E1 |
Lower oven temperature sensor is defective Learn More |
| F3/E3 |
Meat probe is defective Learn More |
| F5/E0 |
The oven door switch and oven door lock switch don’t agree Learn More |
| F5/E1 |
Oven door lock assembly doesn’t work Learn More |
| F6/E0 |
No communication between the user interface and the electronic oven control board Learn More |
| F6/E1 |
Oven too hot in Bake or Broil mode Learn More |
| F6/E2 |
Oven too hot in Clean mode Learn More |
| F6/E4 |
Mismatched user interface and electronic oven control board Learn More |
| F6/E5 |
Electronic control board programmed incorrectly Learn More |
For immediate assistance with KitchenAid Oven Error Codes, reach out to Appliance Repair Los Angeles at 323-792-1970. Our dedicated helpline is available to address your queries and schedule prompt service appointments.
Kitchenaid Dryer has a burning smell
KitchenAid Dryer Lint Filter
Excessive lint build-up in the dryer can be a fire hazard. The element or burner can cause the lint to catch on fire. It is recommened to clean out the dryer and dryer venting at least once a year.
KitchenAid Dryer Drive Belt
A drive belt that is stretched, worn or frayed can slip producing a burning smell. If the belt is damaged also check that the drum and idler pulley turn freely.
KitchenAid Dryer Main Control Board
A dryer’s main control board controls the voltage being sent to all of the appliance’s electrical components. The board itself can become shorted and produce a burning smell. You should inspect the board for any burn marks or a shorted components and replace if necessary.
KitchenAid Dryer Blower Belt
Some dryer models use a belt to run the blower. If the blower gets stuck or the blower belt is worn, loose and slipping, it can produce a burning smell. Confirm the blower turns freely and replace the belt if needed.
KitchenAid Dryer Idler Pulley
The idler pulley keeps tension on the belt to prevent it from slipping. If the idler wheel is damaged or stops turning, the belt can slip on the drive pulley, producing a burning smell. If your idler pulley is damaged or doesn’t turn, you should replace it. Replacing the drive belt is also recommended.
KitchenAid Dryer Drive Motor
The drive motor spins the drum to rotate the clothes. If one of the drum supports or idler pulley is binding up, the motor may stop or strain to keep turning. Sometimes the motor itself can have bad bearings making the motor shaft hard to turn. When this happens, the windings can overheat causing an electrical burning smell. If the motor hums but won’t start, or the windings smell burnt, the motor will likely need to be replaced.
KitchenAid Dryer Drum Roller
If the smell coming from the dryer smells like burning rubber, it’s possible that a drum roller has worn out and the friction of the drum rubbing against the roller is producing the smell. Inspect the drum roller for wear and confirm the roller can spin freely. If one or more of the rollers are worn out, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The axle can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the axle thoroughly before installing the new rollers.).
KitchenAid Dryer Drum Support Roller & Axle
If the smell coming from the dryer smells like burning rubber, it’s possible that a drum support roller and axle has worn out and the friction of the drum rubbing against the roller is producing the smell. Inspect the support roller and axle for wear and confirm the roller can spin freely. If one or more of the rollers are worn out, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The axle can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the axle thoroughly before installing the new rollers.).
KitchenAid Dryer Control Board
The control board provides power to the various components of the dryer. If the control board receives a power surge, or a component fails, the control board can short-out causing a burning smell. Inspect the control board for burn marks. A burnt control board will need to be replaced.
KitchenAid Dryer Terminal Block
The terminal block connects the power cord to the dryer’s electrical wiring. If the connections on the terminal block were not tight the terminal connectors can get hot, producing a burning smell. Inspect the terminal block for burnt connectors. If the terminal block is badly burnt it will need to be replaced.
KitchenAid Dryer Timer
Contacts in the timer can become worn over time and fail to make good contact. When this happens, the contacts can overheat and arc, potentially producing a burning smell from the timer.
Excessive Lint in Dryer Cabinet
Over time lint will collect in the interior dryer cabinet, covering the dryer components. Lint that collects on the heater or burner assembly can ignite and cause a fire. Excessive lint can also cause other components like the motor, rollers and idler pulley to fail. The dryer cabinet should be checked and cleaned every 1 to 3 years depending on use.
Air Flow Problem
If the vent line is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time and cabinet temperature and potentially causing a burning smell. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.
Kitchenaid Dryer damaging clothes
01 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Support Bearing
The drum support bearing is a component used on some dryer models to support the rear of the drum and allow the drum to rotate freely. If the bearing is loose or broken, the drum can become misaligned and damage clothing items that become trapped between the edge of the drum and the front bulkhead. You will need to disassemble the dryer and uninstall the drum to inspect the drum support bearing and to determine if it should be replaced.
02 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Slide Glide or Pad
The drum glides (also called slides) might be worn out. The drum glides are small plastic pieces that support the front of the dryer drum. As the drum rotates, it slides on these plastic pieces. Over time, the drum glides wear out. If the drum glides are worn out, the dryer will usually make noise and the drum will drop down and have a wider gap at the bottom allowing clothes to get caught in the gap. To determine if the drum glides are worn out, inspect them for wear. If one or more glides are worn out, replace all of the glides as a set.
03 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Assembly
As the drum assembly rotates, the clothing could be catching on a damaged section of the drum resulting in tears or holes in the clothing. Inspect the inside of the drum with a flashlight and run a cloth across the surface to see if it catches on anything. If the drum assembly is damaged or has cracks, it should be replaced.
04 – KitchenAid Dryer Filter Cover
The filter cover holds the lint filter in place. If the filter cover is broken or damaged, clothes can get caught and tear on the cover. Inspect the filter. If the filter cover is cracked or damaged it will need to be replaced.
05 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Roller Axle
One or more of the drum roller axles might be worn out. Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers, supporting the front of the drum. Over time, the drum rollers and axles wear out, causing a loud rumbling noise and the drum to drop down and have a wider gap at the bottom allowing clothes to get caught in the gap. To determine if the drum roller axles are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, the axles do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
06 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Roller
One or more of the drum rollers might be worn out. Many dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. When the drum rollers are worn out, they can cause the dryer to make a loud rumbling noise and if worn badly the drum will drop down and have a wider gap at the bottom allowing clothes to get caught in the gap. To determine if the rollers are worn out, inspect the rollers. If one or more of the rollers are severely worn, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure (The roller shaft can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers).
07 – KitchenAid Dryer Felt Seal
Felt seals are used to keep the hot air from escaping from around the drum. Depending on the model you may only see one around the front or one around the front and one at the rear of the drum. If the felt seal gets torn or is missing, clothes can get caught inbetween the drum and the outer housing often called a “shroud”. Open the door and inspect the felt seals for damage and replace them if necessary.
08 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Support Roller & Axle
Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. Over time, the drum roller axles can wear out, causing the rollers to wobble. The drum will drop down and have a wider gap at the bottom allowing clothes to get caught in the gap. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, they do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
09 – Object stuck inside drum area
Screws, nails and other objects can get caught in the drum seal or air intake grill and damage the clothes. Use a flashlight to inspect the inner drum. You can also use a cloth to rub around the drum interior to see if it catches on anything. Remove any objects you find. If the inlet grill or other interior parts are damaged, the part will need to be replaced.
10 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Baffle
If the drum baffle becomes loose or falls off, clothes can get snagged and torn. Check to see if the drum baffles are tight against the drum. If the baffles are loose they can be tightened. If they are cracked or broken they will need to be replaced.
Kitchenaid Dryer makes noise
01 – KitchenAid Dryer Drive Belt
The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor. Over time, the drive belt can become frayed or otherwise damaged. If the drive belt is frayed or damaged, the dryer will be noisy as it turns. Inspect the drive belt for signs of wear. If the drive belt is worn, replace it.
02 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Roller
One or more of the drum rollers might be worn out. Many dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. When the drum rollers are worn out, they can cause the dryer to make a loud rumbling noise. To determine if the rollers are worn out, inspect the rollers. If one or more of the rollers are severely worn, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The roller shaft can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.)
03 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Roller Axle
One or more of the drum roller axles might be worn out. Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. Over time, the drum rollers and axles wear out, causing the dryer to make a loud rumbling noise. To determine if the drum roller axles are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, the axles do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
04 – Dryer is not level
Confirm the dryer is level. A dryer that is not level can cause excessive wear on certain parts such as bearings and glides, resulting in noisy operation. If the dryer is not level, adjust the leveling legs as necessary.
05 – KitchenAid Dryer Blower Wheel
The blower wheel draws air through the dryer and pushes the air out the vent. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. If an object is caught in the blower wheel, the dryer may make noise. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.
06 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Bearing
The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time, the drum bearing wears out. If the drum bearing is worn out, the dryer may make noise. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, it is unlikely that the drum bearing is worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, check the drum bearing and replace it if necessary.
07 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Support Roller & Axle
Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. Over time, the drum roller axles can wear out, causing the rollers to bind. If the rollers are worn out or start binding, the dryer may make a loud rumbling noise. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, they do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
08 – KitchenAid Dryer Maintenance Kit
If your dryer is making noise and you aren’t sure which part to replace, you can purchase a dryer maintenance kit. The dryer maintenance kit contains all of the parts that are commonly defective when the dryer is noisy. Search for your model number to find the maintenance kit applicable to your dryer.
09 – KitchenAid Dryer Blower Wheel and Housing
The dryer blower wheel is the component that circulates the air through the dryer drum. If the blower wheel is damaged or loose on the motor shaft, or there is an obstruction in the blower housing, you may hear a scraping, rattling, or vibrating noise.
10 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Support Bearing
The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time, the drum bearing wears out. If the drum bearing is worn out, the dryer may make noise. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, it is unlikely that the drum bearing is worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, replace the drum bearing.
11 – KitchenAid Dryer Drum Slide Glide or Pad
The drum glides (also called slides) might be worn out. The drum glides are small plastic pieces that support the front of the dryer drum. As the drum rotates, it slides on these plastic pieces. Over time, the drum glides wear out. If the drum glides are worn out, the dryer will make noise. To determine if the drum glides are worn out, inspect them for wear. If one or more glides are worn out, replace all of the glides as a set.
12 – Items loose in drum
Check the drum for items that may have fallen out of pockets. Screws, nails, and coins are common items that will make noise if they are loose in the dryer. For scraping noises also look for items caught between the front and rear drum seal and bulkhead.
13 – KitchenAid Dryer Idler Pulley
Inspect the idler pulley for signs of wear. If the idler pulley is worn or damaged, we recommend replacing the drive belt in addition to replacing the idler pulley.
14 – KitchenAid Dryer Idler Assembly
Inspect the idler assembly for signs of wear. If the idler assembly is worn or damaged, we recommend replacing the drive belt in addition to replacing the idler assembly.
15 – KitchenAid Dryer Drive Motor
The drive motor bearings might be worn out. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the drive motor, check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the drive motor.
Kitchenaid Dryer tripping breaker
01 – The Circuit Breaker is Weak
Over time, circuit breakers can weaken. If the circuit breaker is weak, it may trip, even if the amperage draw from the dryer is below the breakers limit. If you have already checked all of the potentially defective dryer components, consider having an electrician replace the circuit breaker.
02 – KitchenAid Dryer Heating Element
Sometimes, if the heating element fails, it shorts out against the heater housing, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.
03 – KitchenAid Dryer Heating Element Assembly
Sometimes, if the heating element fails, it shorts out against the heater housing, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the heating element assembly is shorted out, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element assembly has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element assembly is shorted out, replace it.
04 – KitchenAid Dryer Power Cord
If the dryer’s power cord wire terminal connections are not secured properly to the terminal block, the terminal block can short out and cause a circuit breaker to trip or a fuse to blow. You should inspect both the terminal block and the power cord terminal connections for damage. If the power cord wire terminals are burnt or melted, you will need to replace the power cord.
05 – Loose or Burnt Power Cord Connections
Loose or burnt power cord connections can cause restricted current flow, making the circuit breaker overheat and trip. Check the power cord connections at the dryer and receptacle for burnt prongs, wires, or terminals. If the power cord or terminal block is damaged it will need to be replaced.
06 – KitchenAid Dryer Drive Motor
Sometimes, when the drive motor fails, it shorts out internally, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the drive motor is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the motor windings are shorted out, replace the drive motor.
07 – KitchenAid Dryer Terminal Block
Electric dryer power cords attach to the dryer at a terminal block. If any of the wires on the terminal block are loose, they can arc and destroy part of the block. If this happens, one of the wires can short against the body of the dryer, causing the dryer to trip the breaker. This is not a common occurrence.
Kitchenaid Dryer not heating
01 – KitchenAid Dryer Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.
02 – KitchenAid Dryer Drive Motor
Most dryer drive motors have a centrifugal switch that energizes a start winding when the motor is first started and closes a heat cycle contact to allow the heat source to work. If the motor’s centrifugal switch is faulty, either the motor won’t run or the motor will run but the dryer won’t heat. Since most centrifugal switches are not sold separately, the entire motor will need to be replaced if the switch is defective.
03 – KitchenAid Dryer Gas Valve Solenoid
Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a gas valve solenoid fails, the dryer won’t heat. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.
04 – Incorrect cycle settings
Ensure the dryer is set to the appropriate heat setting. The setting may have been inadvertently changed to a non-heat option.
05 – KitchenAid Dryer Igniter
The igniter uses heat to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter is not working, the gas will not ignite, preventing the dryer from heating. To determine if the igniter has burned out, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.
06 – KitchenAid Dryer Heating Element
The heating element warms the air before it enters the dryer drum. Over time, the heating element can burn out, causing the dryer not to heat. To determine if the heating element has burned out, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.
07 – KitchenAid Dryer Heating Element Assembly
The heating element assembly warms the air before it enters the dryer drum. Over time, the heating element can burn out, causing the dryer not to heat. To determine if the heating element assembly has burned out, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the heating element assembly does not have continuity, replace it.
08 – KitchenAid Dryer Flame Sensor
On a gas dryer, the flame sensor detects the heat emitted by the flame. If the flame sensor isn’t working, the dryer won’t heat. Before checking the flame sensor, first make sure that the igniter and thermal fuse are not at fault. To determine if the flame sensor is defective, use a multimeter to test the sensor for continuity at room temperature. If the flame sensor does not have continuity at room temperature, replace it.
09 – KitchenAid Dryer Control Board
A dryer’s control board controls the voltage being sent to all of the appliance’s electrical components. If the board is defective, it may not allow voltage to reach the heating circuit. You can inspect the board for signs of damage or a shorted component. You can also use a multimeter to test for voltage reaching the drive motor after reviewing the dryer’s wiring diagram.
10 – Incoming Power Problem
An electric dryer heater requires 220 volts to operate properly. If the incoming voltage is incorrect the dryer can run and not heat.
11 – KitchenAid Dryer Thermistor
A dryer thermistor monitors the temperature of the burner or heater housing and will shut off the heat once a sufficient temperature is reached. If the thermistor is faulty, the dryer may not heat at all.
12 – KitchenAid Dryer High Limit Thermostat
The high-limit thermostat monitors the dryer temperature and shuts off the burner if the dryer overheats. If the high-limit thermostat is malfunctioning, it may shut off the burner even if the dryer is not overheating. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the high limit thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
13 – KitchenAid Dryer Gas Valve Assembly
A dryer’s gas valve assembly will open to allow gas to flow into the burner tube to ignite into a flame to heat the air being circulated through the dryer drum. If the gas valve assembly is malfunctioning, the dryer may not heat.
14 – KitchenAid Dryer Cycling Thermostat
The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to regulate the air temperature. If the cycling thermostat is defective, the dryer will not heat. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the cycling thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multimeter to test for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
15 – KitchenAid Dryer Main Control Board
The main control board might be defective. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the main control board, check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the main control board. (The control board cannot be easily tested, but you can try to inspect it for signs of burning or a shorted-out component.)
16 – KitchenAid Dryer Timer
If the dryer doesn’t heat, the timer might be defective. However, this is very rarely the case. Before replacing the timer, check all the more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, test the timer by using a multimeter and consulting the wiring diagram. If the timer is defective, replace it.
Kitchenaid Dryer won’t stop
Air Flow Problem
If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.
Anti-wrinkle cycle option selected
Most dryer models have an anti-wrinkle cycle option that can be selected to reduce wrinkles. When selected the dryer drum will tumble the clothes every few minutes after the cycle is completed to help keep wrinkles from occurring. If this option was inadvertently selected the dryer will intermittently run until the clothes are removed.
KitchenAid Dryer Blower Wheel
The blower wheel draws air through the dryer and pushes the air out the vent. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If the blower wheel is obstructed or defective, it may take too long to dry clothes. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.
Incoming Power Problem
Plug in the dryer or check house power at outlet/circuit breaker.
KitchenAid Dryer Control Board
A dryer’s control board controls the voltage being sent to all of the appliance’s electrical components. If there’s no obstruction in the dryer’s venting and the dryer is heating to the proper temperature, it’s possible the control board is defective and allowing the appliance to run longer than it should. You can inspect the board for signs of damage or a shorted component. You can also use a multimeter to test for voltage reaching the drive motor after reviewing the dryer’s wiring diagram.
KitchenAid Dryer Main Control Board
A dryer’s main control board controls the voltage being sent to all of the appliance’s electrical components. If there’s no obstruction in the dryer’s venting and the dryer is heating to the proper temperature, it’s possible the control board is defective and allowing the appliance to run longer than it should. You can inspect the board for signs of damage or a shorted component.
Dirty Moisture Sensor Bars
The control board uses the moisture sensor bars to sense the dampness of the clothes. Over time the sensor bars can become coated, expecially from dryer sheet residue. Try cleaning off the bars with warm soap and water. If the sensor bars are damaged they will need to be replaced.
KitchenAid Dryer Lint Filter
The lint filter might be clogged. Dryer sheets and fabric softener can leave a residue on the lint filter, reducing the air flow. If the lint filter is clogged, clean it.
KitchenAid Dryer Door Switch
A dryer door switch will allow voltage to be sent from the control board to the drive motor once the door is closed and interrupt that voltage when the door is opened. If the dryer is not stopping when the door is opened, the door switch has likely shorted closed. You can use a multimeter to test the door switch for electrical continuity. If the switch tests positive for continuity both before and after actuation, the component is defective and will need to be replaced.
KitchenAid Dryer Moisture Sensor
The moisture sensor monitors the clothing’s moisture level and sends a signal to the control board when the clothes are dry. If the moisture sensor is malfunctioning, it could inaccurately report that the clothing is still moist, causing the dryer to keep running even though the clothes are dry. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the moisture sensor check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the moisture sensor.
KitchenAid Dryer Timer
Mechanical timers have a motor on them like a clock that rotates the timer down to the off position on the control panel. If the motor goes bad on the timer it will not move when set to a timed dry cycle and the dryer won’t stop.
Kitchenaid Dryer overheating
01 – KitchenAid Dryer Heating Element
The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.\
02 – KitchenAid Dryer Heating Element Assembly
The heating element warms air as it passes over the element. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, first use a multimeter to test the heating element for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it. Next, test for continuity from each terminal to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.
03 – KitchenAid Dryer Timer
A dryer that is overheating could be caused by a faulty timer allowing continuous voltage to be sent to the heating circuit. If the timer’s heating contacts and the heating element are shorted, the heating element can heat when the timer is off. However, this is very rarely the case. Before replacing the timer, check all the more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, test the timer by using a multimeter and consulting the wiring diagram. If the timer is defective, replace it.
04 – Air Flow Problem
If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.
05 – KitchenAid Dryer Drive Motor
A dryer’s drive motor will drive the drum belt to rotate the drum as well as spin a blower wheel to circulate the air through the drum during operation. If the dryer runs for a while and then stops, and won’t start again until it cools down, it’s likely the drive motor is malfunctioning and will need to be replaced.
06 – KitchenAid Dryer Thermistor
A dryer thermistor monitors the dryer temperature and sends a resistance reading to the control board. If the thermistor is malfunctioning, it may fail to send the correct reading to the control board resulting in the dryer overheating. If you’ve determined there is good air flow coming out the home’s outside vent hood and the dryer venting is free of obstructions, the thermistor is one of the components you can test for electrical continuity with a multimeter to see if it’s functioning properly. While the thermistor should have continuity at room temperature, the ohm’s reading should go lower as the temperature on the sensor increases. If the thermistor has shorted or shows no continuity it should be replaced with a new one. Thermistors rarely get out of calibration.
07 – KitchenAid Dryer Main Control Board
A dryer’s main control board controls the voltage being sent to all of the appliance’s electrical components. If a relay on the board has shorted, it may sent continuous voltage to the heating circuit causing the dryer to overhead. To help determine this, you can inspect the board for signs of damage or a shorted component.
08 – Clogged lint filter
A clogged lint filter will cause a loss of air flow, which can cause the dryer to overheat and eventually trip the thermal fuse. For the best drying performance, clean the lint filter before starting the dryer. If you use dryer sheets, residue can build up on the lint filter. If you cannot blow air through the dryer lint filter it will need to be cleaned with a brush, soap, water. Confirm the lint filter housing and grille, if applicable, are free of lint build up as well.
09 – KitchenAid Dryer Cycling Thermostat
The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to maintain the proper air temperature. If the thermostat is defective, it may keep the heat on too long, causing the dryer to get too hot. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the cycling thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
10 – KitchenAid Dryer Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to prevent heat from escaping the drum. If the seal is worn out or missing, the heat will not be drawn through the drum properly, causing the dryer to get too hot. Check the drum seal to ensure that it is creating a reliable seal around the drum. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the felt seal check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the felt seal.
11 – KitchenAid Dryer High Limit Thermostat
The high limit thermostat monitors the air temperature in the dryer’s blower housing, heating element, or heat duct and is intended to shut off the voltage to the heating circuit if the air temperature gets too hot. If the thermostat is defective, it may allow the heat to stay on too long, causing the dryer to get overheated. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the high limit thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multimeter to test it for electrical continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
12 – KitchenAid Dryer Blower Wheel
The blower wheel works with the drive motor to draw air into the dryer drum. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If the blower wheel is obstructed or defective, the dryer may get too hot. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.
13 – KitchenAid Dryer Control Board
A dryer’s control board controls the voltage being sent to all of the appliance’s electrical components. If a relay on the board has shorted, it may sent continuous voltage to the heating circuit causing the dryer to overhead. To help determine this, you can inspect the board for signs of damage or a shorted component.
