Kitchenaid Dishwasher Error Code 1-1 or F1E1
Error Code 1-1 or F1E1 on your KitchenAid dishwasher signifies a “Stuck Relay” on the electronic control board. This issue occurs when a relay, a crucial electronic component responsible for controlling various functions, becomes unresponsive or fails to switch properly.
- Power Reset:
- Shut off power to the dishwasher for a minimum of 5 minutes.
- Restore power and observe if the error code reappears.
- If the error persists, proceed to the next steps.
- Check Wiring for Damage:
- Examine the wiring connected to the control board for any visible damage, wear, or breakage.
- Repair any broken wires or connections, ensuring a secure and proper electrical connection.
- Measure Component Resistance:
- Refer to the tech sheet located behind the bottom front toe panel of the dishwasher.
- Using the tech sheet as a guide, measure the resistance through all components connected to the control board.
- Identify and replace any components showing signs of defects or abnormal resistance.
- Inspect for Defective Components:
- Thoroughly examine components linked to the control board, such as switches and relays.
- Replace any defective components to ensure the proper functioning of the dishwasher.
- Replace Electronic Control Board:
- If the wiring and components are in good condition and the issue persists, consider replacing the electronic control board.
- The electronic control board is a vital part of the dishwasher’s operation, and a malfunction may necessitate a replacement for seamless performance.
Note to Readers: Understanding and resolving Error Code 1-1 (F1E1) involves a systematic approach, from power resets to component inspections. Always refer to the tech sheet for guidance and, if needed, consult with a professional technician for a precise diagnosis and replacement of components.
Kitchenaid Dishwasher Error Codes
KitchenAid stands as a symbol of culinary excellence, providing households with appliances designed to elevate kitchen experiences. Their dishwashers combine sleek design with advanced features, promising efficiency and reliability in every wash.
When faced with KitchenAid Dishwasher Error Codes, entrust the resolution to the experts. Appliance Repair Los Angeles boasts a team of seasoned technicians with an in-depth understanding of KitchenAid appliances. We pride ourselves on delivering prompt, precise, and reliable solutions to restore your dishwasher’s optimal performance.
In our blog, we embark on a journey to explore prevalent problems associated with KitchenAid Dishwasher Error Codes. From simple troubleshooting to intricate repairs, our goal is to empower you with the knowledge needed to address issues promptly.
| Error Code |
Causes |
| 1-1 or F1E1 |
Stuck relay on the electronic control board Learn More |
| 1-2 or F1E2 |
Damaged or corrupted memory on control board. Incompatible software components inside microprocessor Learn More |
| 2-1 or F2E1 |
Stuck button on the user interface control Learn More |
| 2-2 or F2E2 |
User interface control can’t communicate with electronic control board Learn More |
| 3-1 or F3E1 |
Thermistor/OWI sensor failure (The thermistor is the water temperature sensor, the OWI sensor is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.) Learn More |
| 3-2 or F3E2 |
Shorted thermistor/OWI sensor Learn More |
| 3-3 or F3E3 |
OWI failed to calibrate or the drain hose check valve failed, allowing dirty water to backflow into the dishwasher Learn More |
| 4-4 or F4E4 |
Communication error between the electronic control board and the circulation pump motor Learn More |
| 5-1 or F5E1 |
Door switch failure Learn More |
| 5-2 or F5E2 |
Control detects door not opening Learn More |
| 6-1 or F6E1 |
Won’t fill Learn More |
| 6-2 or F6E2 |
Water inlet valve failure Learn More |
| 6-3 or F6E3 |
Suds or air are in the water pump Learn More |
| 6-4 or F6E4 |
The float switch is open Learn More |
| 6-6 or F6E6 |
Incoming water is too cold Learn More |
| 7-1 or F7E1 |
Heating element doesn’t work Learn More |
| 7-2 or F7E2 |
Heating element won’t shut off Learn More |
| 8-1 or F8E1 |
Slow drain Learn More |
| 8-2 or F8E2 |
Drain pump electrical problem Learn More |
| 9-1 or F9E1 |
Electronic control board can’t detect the position of the diverter disc Learn More |
| 9-2 or F9E2 |
Diverter motor is stuck on Learn More |
| 9-3 or F9E3 |
Diverter disc is missing Learn More |
| 9-4 or F9E4 |
Lower spray arm error Learn More |
| 10-1 or FAE1 |
Detergent dispenser failure Learn More |
| 10-2 or FAE2 |
Vent wax motor electrical problem Learn More |
| 10-3 or FAE3 |
Drying fan failure Learn More |
Should you encounter a perplexing Error Code on your KitchenAid dishwasher, Appliance Repair Los Angeles is just a call away. Dial 323-792-1970 to connect with our helpline, where our dedicated team is ready to assist. Whether it’s a glitch in the sensor or a malfunctioning component, our experts will diagnose, explain, and resolve the issue efficiently.
Kitchenaid Refrigerator Door Seal Issues
Why is it important to ensure the doors are sealing correctly?
A refrigerator that is not sealing properly may lead to the following:
- Frost build-up
- Temperature fluctuation
- Door switch is unable to make contact correctly
Are food packages or beverage bottles blocking the door?
Rearrange containers so that they fit more tightly and take up less space.
Do the door gasket(s) seem dirty or sticky?
The gasket(s) needs to be cleaned regularly in order for the doors to open and close properly. Dirt and other particles can build up on the gasket surface and can cause resistance. Check the door gasket(s) regularly to ensure it is clean and free of food particles.
Is the refrigerator level?
It is important to ensure the refrigerator is level before aligning the doors. A properly leveled refrigerator will help with the overall proper operation of the refrigerator. Please refer to your Owner’s Manual or Installation Instructions for specific leveling information for your refrigerator.
Tips for leveling the refrigerator:
- Use a level to make sure the refrigerator is level from side to side and front to back.
- Check to make sure the floor under the refrigerator is also level, if the floor is not level shims may need to be used.
Are the doors adjusted properly?
Once the refrigerator is properly level, front to back and side to side, the doors can be adjusted. Instructions on adjusting the doors on your refrigerator can be found in the Owner’s Manual or Installation Instructions. Doors that are properly aligned will help the doors properly seal and close.
Is the mullion or vertical hinged seal folded outward?
On French door models, there is a vertically-hinged seal on the left refrigerator door. The doors can be opened and closed either separately or together. When the left-side door is opened, the hinged seal automatically folds inward so that it is out of the way. When both doors are closed, the hinged seal automatically forms a seal between the two doors. If the seal is folded outward when the door is open, make sure to fold it inward by hand before the door is closed. If the seal remains in the outward position the doors will not close or seal properly.
Are there any food items being stored in the doors?
The refrigerator doors are designed to be slightly different heights when the refrigerator is empty, in order to account for the weight of food that will be placed on the doors. Adding food to the doors will help properly align the doors.
Kitchenaid Refrigerator Display or Controls Not Functioning
KitchenAid Refrigerator User Control and Display Board
To determine if the user control and display board is defective, try pressing the buttons on the control panel. If some of the buttons work, but others do not work, the user control and display board might need to be replaced. Additionally, if the display is not working, check the power to the user control and display board. If the user control and display board has power, but it isn’t working, replace it.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Dispenser Control Board
The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, it is probable that an individual part has failed. In this case, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Display Board
To determine if the display board is defective, try pressing the buttons on the control panel. If some of the buttons work, but others do not work, the display board might need to be replaced. Additionally, if the display board is not working, check for power to the display board. If the display board has power, but it isn’t working, replace it.
Disconnected or Damaged Wire Harness
The wires from the control panel to the control board may be loose or have become disconnected. Make sure the wire harness connectors are tight. A damaged wire harness will need to be replaced.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Dispenser Front Panel
On some refrigerator models the user controls are part of the ice and water dispensers front panel. If none of the control panel buttons are working, it’s probable the main control board is malfunctioning. However, if some of the buttons on the control panel are still functioning, it’s more likely the unit’s user control and display is faulty. If this component is sold as part of the dispenser front panel, the entire assembly can be replaced.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Main Control Board
The main control board might be defective. However, the control board is rarely at fault for this problem. Before replacing the control board, first check all of the dispenser components. If none of the dispenser components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Control Board
The control board might be defective. However, the control board is rarely at fault for this problem. Before replacing the control board, first check all of the dispenser components. If none of the dispenser components are defective, consider replacing the control board.
Control Panel Is Locked Out
Most refrigerator control panels located on the door have a “Child Lock” feature which prevents unwanted use of the controls. When activated, the control panel buttons will not work. On most models, pressing the “Child Lock” button for 3 to 4 seconds will lock and unlock this function. See the owner’s manual for more detailed instructions.
Kitchenaid Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing
Is the refrigerator located in a garage?
This refrigerator is designed for indoor, household use only. It is intended for use in a location where the temperature ranges from a minimum of 55°F (13°C) to a maximum of 110°F (43°C). Operating the refrigerator outside of the recommended temperature range may result in improper temperatures, temperature fluctuation, and/or the refrigerator to not running at peak performance.
Did the power recently go out?
The Power Outage indicator (on some models) lets you know if the power supply to the refrigerator has been off and the freezer temperature has risen.
The control panel display will read “Power Outage” and an alert tone will sound 3 times. Touch any button to stop the tone, and touch any button again to turn off the Power Outage icon. Once the power outage has been confirmed, “Power Outage” icon will disappear and the display will return to the Home screen.
Do the condenser coils need to be cleaned?
There is typically no need for routine condenser cleaning in a normal home operating environment. However, if the environment is particularly greasy or dusty, or there is significant pet traffic in the home, the condenser should be cleaned every 2 to 3 months to ensure maximum efficiency. Refer to the Owner’s Manual for additional information on cleaning the condensers for your specific refrigerator model. Some models do not require the condenser coils to be cleaned and other models can only be cleaned by a certified technician.
Is the cooling function turned On?
If the refrigerator is not cooling properly, check to make sure the Refrigerator is turned on. Some Refrigerators need to be manually turned back on after a power outage or power surge. The Refrigerator could also accidentally be turned off during routine cleaning.
For Information on how to turn the Refrigerator Off and On, please see your Owner’s Manual for specific information on your model.
Are the controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions?
Temperature controls are preset at the factory to the “mid setting” which should be correct for normal household use. The controls are set correctly when beverages are as cold as you would like.
- If you need to adjust the temperature, wait at least 24 hours between adjustments and then recheck the temperature.
- To make the Refrigerator colder, adjust the control to the next higher setting. To make the Refrigerator less cold, adjust the control to the next lower setting.
- Repeat this process until the desired temperature is reached
Is the refrigerator located next to a heat source?
It is recommended that you do not install the refrigerator near an oven, radiator, or another heat source. Doing may cause the refrigerator to not cool properly. For best performance, do not install the refrigerator behind a cabinet door or block the base grille.
Is the refrigerator in the “showroom” or “demo” mode?
This mode (on some models) is used only when the refrigerator is on display in a retail store. The interior lights will turn on but the refrigerator and freezer sections will not cool.
If you unintentionally turn on Showroom mode, the word “Showroom” will light up on the display (on some models). The sequence for exiting showroom mode varies by model, so please refer to your Owner’s Manual.
Was the refrigerator recently Installed?
If the refrigerator was recently installed check the following items:
- Allow 24 hours for the freezer to reach proper temperatures
- Check to make sure the freezer door is sealing properly; removing any missed packaging material or rearranging bins are needed
Are the air vents blocked?
In order to ensure proper temperature, you need to allow room for proper airflow between the freezer and refrigerator compartments. Cool air enters and exits the refrigerator compartment from the freezer compartment through vents. Depending on your model, these vents are in different locations.
- Locate the vents in both the freezer and refrigerator compartments and ensure that there is nothing blocking the airflow.
- If vents are blocked, airflow will decrease. Temperature and moisture issues may arise due to blocked vents.
- Items placed directly in the airflow from the freezer compartment to the refrigerator compartment may freeze. Do not place temperature-sensitive items, such as eggs and liquids, in these areas.
Has a large amount of food or beverages been added to the refrigerator?
Adding a large amount of food or beverages warms the refrigerator or freezer. It can take several hours for the refrigerator temperature to stabilize after adding a large number of warm items.
Is the room temperature hotter than normal?
The motor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, your motor will run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more of the time. Do not install in a location where the temperature will fall below 55°F (13°C).
Has the door been opened often?
- Try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the refrigerator as soon as the food is removed.
- Be aware the refrigerator will warm when the door is opened often and for long periods of time
- Opening the door often also allows excess moisture into the refrigerator, potentially creating frost or condensation
Kitchenaid Refrigerator Leaking Water Inside
If you have a Kitchenaid refrigerator, there’s a good chance you may have experienced water leakage at some point. This is a common issue with these appliances, and can be frustrating to deal with. We’ll go through the potential reasons why your Kitchenaid refrigerator is leaking water, as well as some solutions that may help resolve the issue. We hope that this information will help you keep your refrigerator running smoothly!
5 Reasons Why Your Kitchenaid Refrigerator Is Leaking Water
When your KitchenAid refrigerator is leaking water, you’ll want to get it fixed fast to prevent damage! Let’s look into what could be causing the problem.
1. Clogged Or Frozen Defrost Drain Line
One of the most common reasons for a Kitchenaid refrigerator leaking water is a clogged or frozen drain line. The drain line is responsible for carrying away any excess water that accumulates in the fridge, so if it’s blocked, this can cause water to leak out. If it’s frozen, the ice can block it from draining and cause water to leak as well.
To fix a clogged drain line:
First, you’ll need to clear out the blockage. Check your manual to see if it’s accessible, if not this may be time to call in a professional.
If the drain line is frozen:
You’ll need to thaw it out. This can be done by using a hair dryer or by placing a towel soaked in hot water on the frozen section.
2. Full Or Leaky Drain Pan
Another potential issue causing a leaky fridge could be a full or leaky drain pan. The drain pan is located under the fridge and is responsible for catching any water that drips from the defrost line.
If it’s full, this can cause water to overflow and you’ll see water leaking from the bottom of the refrigerator. A leaky drain pan will also cause water to drip out, so you’ll want to check for any cracks or holes.
To fix a full drain pan:
Simply empty it out and make sure it isn’t overfilling in the future.
If the drain pan is leaking:
Inspect it for leaks and if it’s leaking you’ll need to replace it.
3. Improperly Installed Water Filter
If your water filter isn’t installed correctly, this can cause water to leak from the filter connection, usually at the base of the refrigerator, or inside towards the top. Make sure that the filter is properly tightened and that there are no gaps or cracks. Make sure you use an OEM official filter instead of an off-brand filter since these are more prone to leaking.
4. Damaged Water Line
The water line is another common source of refrigerator leaks. This could be due to a kink in the line, a clog in the line, a frozen line, or a break. If you suspect that the water line is the issue, check the line for any issues.
If it’s frozen, try using a hair dryer to unfreeze it. A blocked or deeply clogged water line will likely need to be replaced by a professional.
5. Water Valve Issues
The water valve is what controls the flow of water into the fridge, so if there’s a problem with it, this can cause water to leak. The most common issue is that the valve isn’t closing all the way, which will cause a slow drip.
Another issue could be that the valve is faulty and needs to be replaced. If you suspect that the water valve is the issue, you’ll need to call in a professional to take a look.
These are just a few of the potential reasons why your Kitchenaid refrigerator is leaking water.
Kitchenaid Refrigerator Refrigerator Not Cooling
If your Kitchenaid refrigerator has stopped cooling, you’re in the right place. In this guide, we discuss all of the major causes of this happening and what you need to do to get your fridge working again.
GIVE THE CONDENSER COILS A CLEAN
The most likely reason your Kitchenaid refrigerator is not cooling is also the easiest to fix. At the back of your fridge are condenser coils that help keep your fridge cool. Unfortunately, the coils attract lots of dust or sometimes they can even freeze over, which stops them from working.
Here’s how to check, and if necessary, clean the condenser coils:
- Turn the power off to your refrigerator and then pull it out from the wall so you can access the condenser coils.
- Locate the condenser coils (you may need to remove a panel that covers them to do so).
- If the condenser coils are covered in ice, leave your fridge turned off to allow them to defrost. If they are covered in dust, give them a thorough clean.
- Once the coils are nice and clean or the ice has been removed, turn your fridge back on and check if the problem has been solved. If your fridge still doesn’t cool, you’ll need to check the condenser fan.
MAKE SURE THE CONDENSER FAN IS WORKING
The condenser fan blows air over the condenser coils to help them from freezing, which in turn helps the fridge cool down to the correct temperature. If it becomes defective and cannot operate correctly, your Kitchenaid fridge might stop cooling.
Here’s how to check, and if necessary, fix a faulty condenser fan:
- Turn the power off and pull your fridge out from the wall so you access the condenser fan.
- Locate the condenser fan (consult your user manual if you’re not sure where it is).
- Once you’ve found the fan, take the cover off and then try to turn the fan around manually 360 degrees. If the fan cannot move around, check nothing is obstructing it.
- Next, test the fan motor with a multimeter to ensure it has continuity. If the motor is defective, it will need to be replaced. If the fan can freely move around and it passes the multimeter test, this means it is working and you can move on to checking the evaporator fan.
- If you replace the condenser fan, you’ll then need to check if your fridge now cools properly. If not, check the evaporator fan.
MAKE SURE THE EVAPORATOR FAN IS WORKING
The evaporator fan in your refrigerator helps to circulate air from the freezer unit into the refrigerator to help keep the fridge cooled down. If the fan or the motor that powers the fan stops working, your Kitchenaid fridge might not cool correctly.
Here’s how to check, and if necessary, fix a faulty evaporator fan:
- Turn the power off to your fridge and then locate the fan inside the freezer.
- Take the cover off the fan and check if you’re able to turn it manually around without it being obstructed.
- If anything is obstructing the fan, remove the object.
- Next, use your multimeter to check the evaporator fan motor to see if it has continuity. If it passes the test, it’s not the cause of the problem so you can move on to checking the start relay. If it doesn’t have continuity, replace it and then check if the problem has been solved. If not, check the start relay.
MAKE SURE THE START RELAY IS WORKING
The start relay operates in conjunction with the start winding to help the compressor in your fridge work correctly. When it stops working, your fridge might not be able to stay cool.
Here’s how to check, and if necessary, fix a faulty start relay:
- Make sure the power to the fridge is switched off.
- Locate the start relay (consult your user manual if you’re not sure where it is).
- Use the multimeter to check the start relay for continuity.
- If it fails the test, replace the start relay. If it passes the test, move on to checking the temperature control thermostat.
- After you replace the start relay, check if your fridge now cools. If it still doesn’t work properly, check the temperature control thermostat.
MAKE SURE THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL THERMOSTAT IS WORKING
The temperature control thermostat sends voltage to the evaporator fan motor, the condenser fan motor, and the compressor when required. If the thermostat stops working, other components in your fridge might fail too.
Here’s how to check, and if necessary, fix the temperature control thermostat:
- Make sure the power is switched off to your fridge.
- Locate the temperature control thermostat (if you’re not sure where it is, consult your user manual).
- Check if you can manually move the thermostat from its lowest setting to its highest setting. If you can move it, make sure you can hear a clicking sound when it moves up into the highest setting. If you hear the clicking sound, move on to checking the start capacitor.
- If you cannot hear a clicking sound, the next step is to test the thermostat with your multimeter to see if it has continuity. If the thermostat fails the test, replace it. If it passes the test, move on to checking the start capacitor.
- After the new thermostat is installed, check if your fridge now cools properly. If not, check the start capacitor.
MAKE SURE THE START CAPACITOR IS WORKING
The start capacitor is responsible for helping the compressor in your fridge to start, so if it stops working, your fridge will not be able to stay cool.
You can check the start capacitor by following these steps:
- Make sure the power to the fridge is switched off.
- Locate the start capacitor (consult your user manual if you’re not sure where it is).
- Use the multimeter to check the start capacitor for continuity.
- If it fails the test, replace the start capacitor. If it passes the test, move on to checking the thermistor.
- After you replace the start capacitor, check if your fridge now cools. If it still doesn’t work properly, check the thermistor.
MAKE SURE THE THERMISTOR IS WORKING
The thermistor tracks the temperature in your fridge and then relays that information to the control board, so it knows which components need to turn on or off. If it stops working your fridge will not be able to stay cool.
You can check the thermistor and fix it if required by:
- Make sure the power to the fridge is switched off.
- Locate the thermistor (consult your user manual if you’re not sure where it is).
- Use the multimeter to check the thermistor for continuity.
- If it fails the test, replace the thermistor. If it passes the test, move on to checking the compressor.
- After you replace the thermistor, check if your fridge now cools. If it still doesn’t work properly, check the compressor.
MAKE SURE THE COMPRESSOR IS WORKING
The compressor compresses the refrigerant and then makes sure it is properly distributed throughout the fridge. If it becomes faulty, your fridge might not stay cool.
You can check the compressor, and replace it if required, by:
- Make sure the power to the fridge is switched off.
- Locate the compressor at the back of your fridge.
- Use the multimeter to check the compressor for an open circuit. You need to place the probes onto the pins that you can find on the side of the compressor.
- If it fails the test, replace the compressor or you might be better off buying a new fridge depending on the replacement cost. If it passes the test, you may need to replace the main control board (see below).
- If you do replace the compressor, check if your fridge now cools. If it still doesn’t work properly, you’ll need to consider replacing the main control board (see below).
Kitchenaid Refrigerator Unusual Noises
Whether you hear popping, hissing or rattling coming from your refrigerator, knowing the source of the noise can help you know how to address it. Discover 7 common refrigerator noises below and find out what you can do about them.
IS IT OKAY FOR A FRIDGE TO MAKE NOISE?
Unfamiliar sounds from your refrigerator can be concerning, but they’re often an indicator that everything is operating as it should be. Slight buzzing, clicking, popping, rattling, humming and dripping sounds are all typical in a refrigerator that’s operating smoothly. Functions like water passing through piping, water valves opening or closing, the compressor cooling the unit and the refrigerator defrosting, can all make unique noises as they work to keep your refrigerator running.
WHEN SHOULD I WORRY ABOUT MY REFRIGERATOR’S NOISES?
Your refrigerator may make a variety of noises as part of normal operation, but that doesn’t mean every sound is typical. If you notice that your refrigerator’s usual noises become amplified over time or suddenly become louder, that may be an indicator that a refrigerator component is in need of maintenance or repair. Consult a certified professional if you’re concerned about a noisy fridge.
POSSIBLE REFRIGERATOR NOISES AND HOW TO FIX THEM
Whether you hear popping, hissing or rattling coming from your refrigerator, knowing the source of the noise can help you know how to address it. Discover 7 common refrigerator noises below and find out what you can do about them.
1. WHY IS MY REFRIGERATOR VIBRATING?
A vibrating noise coming from your refrigerator may mean that the unit isn’t firmly planted or level with the floor below.
2. WHY IS MY REFRIGERATOR RATTLING?
You may hear a rattling from the refrigerator as water passes through the water line, refrigerant flows through the unit or items are placed on top of the refrigerator.
Kitchenaid Refrigerator Excessive Frost Buildup
Is the moisture on top of the freezer door gasket?
If there is moisture on top of the freezer door gasket or water droplets on the door gasket, this can be caused by water dripping off the mullion or center rail. Certain refrigerators are equipped with a separate control to prevent exterior moisture from forming on this seal. The Energy Saver or Humidity feature controls a heater that helps to reduce moisture on the vertical hinged seal. Turning this feature On/Off will vary by model, so please reference your Owner’s Manual for specific instructions.
Are the doors left open for long periods of time?
Frost is likely to build up if the door is left open for a period of time; allowing humidity to enter the freezer. Make sure the door is closing completely and is not blocked by something between the door gasket and cabinet.
Are the doors opened frequently?
Frequent door openings can let in humid room air. Keeping door openings to a minimum will help, but may not completely eliminate frost or ice in the freezer. During months of high humidity (especially if a home is not air-conditioned), it is normal to see some frost and sweating on the interior walls or on food packages.
Are the doors sealing correctly?
An improper seal of the gaskets on the refrigerator or freezer doors could also cause humidity to form. Check the seal around the outside doors and the freezer door to make sure nothing is obstructing the gasket seal.
Are the air vents blocked?
Blocked vents can cause a couple of different issues including moisture build-up or excessive frost. In order to help the moisture build-up you need to allow room for proper air flow between the freezer and refrigerator compartments. Cool air enters and exits the refrigerator compartment from the freezer compartment through vents. Depending on your model, these vents are in different locations.
Kitchenaid Refrigerator Ice Maker Malfunctions
Refrigerator ice makers mean a cold beverage is always at your fingertips…unless something goes wrong. Why is my KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not working? The freezer may be set at the wrong temperature, limiting ice production. Determine the most likely reasons for a KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not making ice and how to solve the problem.
How to Troubleshoot a KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working
In some cases, a KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not working requires a professional part replacement. However, sometimes a quick adjustment or DIY fix is all you need to restore proper function. Use these KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker troubleshooting tips to pinpoint the problem and the right solution.
1. KitchenAid Ice Maker Not Turned On
Before troubleshooting any complications, first make sure your ice maker is turned on. Some model refrigerators have a KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker on/off switch on the top right side of the freezer compartment. Make sure the switch is in the “on” position.
For those ice makers without an on/off switch, a wire shutoff arm on top of the unit turns it on or off. The shutoff arm must be in the down position for the ice maker to be turned on.
2. KitchenAid Freezer Temperature Issues
Your freezer temperature must be within a specific range for the ice maker to produce ice. If the temperature is too low (below 0℉) the ice maker’s ejection components can freeze, leaving them unable to dispense ice cubes. A temperature that’s too high (over 10℉) causes the ice maker to produce smaller or misshapen cubes.
If you find your KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not working properly, check your freezer temperature. It should be between 0-5℉ for optimal ice production.
3. Ice Maker Water Supply Problem
A KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not filling with water will be unable to produce ice or will make smaller, malformed cubes. Typically, a water supply issue is responsible when your ice maker doesn’t fill sufficiently.
The following issues can affect your ice maker’s water supply:
- Clogged water filter: A water filter that’s blocked with minerals and debris restricts the flow of water to the ice maker, limiting ice production. Changing your KitchenAid refrigerator water filter every 6 months can prevent clogs. It may need to be changed more frequently if ice production is affected or if ice cubes taste bad.
- Frozen water line: Occasionally, residual water in the ice maker’s water line can freeze, forming a blockage that restricts water flow. Aiming a hairdryer at the water line can melt the blockage, allowing water to flow. Keeping the freezer within the recommended temperature range can also lessen the chance of the line freezing.
- Kinked water line: Kinks in the line can also restrict water flow, preventing ice production. Check the water line for kinks and gently straighten them, if possible. If the water line is damaged, it must be replaced.
- Faulty water inlet valve: The water inlet valve opens and closes to allow water from your home’s water supply to enter the refrigerator. If the valve malfunctions, it may remain closed, prohibiting water from supplying the ice maker. A faulty valve should be professionally replaced.
4. Defective KitchenAid Ice Maker
If you still find your KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not working after trying these troubleshooting tips, ice maker components may be defective. If the ice maker module fails, the ice maker won’t receive power to open the water inlet valve or eject ice. Similarly, if the mold thermostat stops functioning, the ice maker molds won’t fill with water at the proper temperature.
